Cat Care Tips

Cat Anatomy Facts

Cool Cat Anatomy Facts brought to you by Clear the Air!

Remember PETCO now carries our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator at all their stores.  Stop in to pick some up!

• Cats can’t taste sweets.
• The cat’s front paw has 5 toes, but the back paws have 4. Some cats are born with as many as 7 front toes and extra back toes (polydactl).
• A cat has 32 muscles in each ear.
• Neutering a cat extends it’s life span by two or three years

• A cat’s tongue consists of small “hooks,” which come in handy when tearing up food
• Cats must have fat in their diet because they can’t produce it on their own.
• Cat’s urine glows under a black light.
• Cats have a third eyelid called a haw and you will probably only see it when kitty isn’t feeling well.
• A cat sees about six times better than a human at night because of a layer of extra reflecting cells which absorb light.
• Cats sleep 16 to 18 hours per day
• Cats are the only animal that walk on their claws, not the pads of their feet.
• Newborn kittens have closed ear canals that don’t begin to open for nine days.
• A kittens eyes are always blue at first
• A cat cannot see directly under its nose.
• It is a common belief that cats are color blind. However, recent studies have shown that cats can see blue, green and red
• Cats with white fur and skin on their ears are very prone to sunburn.
• Siamese kittens are born white.
• A cat’s jaws cannot move sideways.
• Cats have over one hundred vocal sounds, while dogs only have about ten.
• A cat can jump even seven times as high as it is tall.
• A cat is pregnant for about 58-65 days.
• A cat may have three to seven kittens every four months
• Cats step with both left legs, then both right legs when they walk or run. The only other animals to do this are the giraffe and the camel
• If a male cat is both orange and black it is most likely sterile
• The color of the points in Siamese cats is heat related. Cool areas are darker
• Cats lack a true collarbone. Because of this, a cat can generally squeeze their bodies through any space they can get their heads through.
• There are tiny, parasitic worms that can live in a cat’s stomach. These worms cause frequent vomiting.
• A cat’s brain is more similar to a man’s brain than that of a dog.
• A cat has more bones than a human; humans have 206, the cat has 230.
• Cats have 30 vertebrae–5 more than humans have.
• Cat have 500 skeletal muscles (humans have 650).
• A cat can rotate its ears independently 180 degrees, and can turn in the direction of sound 10 times faster than those of the best watchdog
• Cats’ hearing is much more sensitive than humans and dogs.
• Cats’ hearing stops at 65 khz (kilohertz); humans’ hearing stops at 20 khz.
• In relation to their body size, cats have the largest eyes of any mammal.
• A cat’s field of vision is about 185 degrees.
• Blue-eyed, white cats are often deaf.

Do you have any other cool cat facts?  Share them with us on our blog!

Why A Cat Can Benefit Seniors

Cats make wonderful pets for people of all ages.

Wherever you live, a cat can be an ideal pet for you.  There are many reasons why but we would like to focus on the benefits cats provide for senior citizens.

Cats can improve your health – Even though cats require fairly minimal care, the care they do require provides much-needed exercise for older owners. Even seniors who have arthritis or other physical limitations can easily care for cats. Because cats need us to care for them by scooping their boxes, feeding them and giving them fresh water, cats get us up and moving whether we want to or not! Caring for and feeding a cat calls for routines and activities seniors might not otherwise have, providing important mental stimulation. This not only benefits senior citizens’ overall health, but can help them live longer and healthier lives.

Cats can improve your mood – Seniors can become lonely, or even depressed, when they retire or lose their spouse, or when their children move away. Some seniors become depressed simply because they do not get out and about as much anymore. Studies show that pets help seniors overcome loneliness and depression by providing affection, company, entertainment and a sense of responsibility and purpose. Seniors with pets tend to get up, talk and smile much more than when there are no pets around.  Think about it, when you are home alone with your cat, do you usually say a few words to him?  It definitely makes being alone more enjoyable when you have your furry feline around.

Cats over dogs - Although dogs can also make great pets for some seniors and provide the same benefits as cat ownership, careful consideration should be given to the care, training and exercise requirements of a dog. Many older owners simply can’t keep up with a dog’s needs, which makes adopting a cat a much better choice. Unlike dogs, cats are happy staying indoors all the time.  Most adult cats require only 20 to 30 minutes of playtime per day, and interactive play does not require the owner to be mobile. A kitty fishing pole or laser toy lets senior cat owners engage their cat in play while sitting in their favorite chair. Cats are also very content to spend most of their time sleeping on their owner’s lap or bed which makes this pet a perfect fit for someone less active.

Important tips to keep in mind when choosing your new pet cat -

• Lifespan – Before acquiring any pet, it is important to consider the lifespan of the animal and what will happen in the event that the owner is no longer able to care for the pet. In many cases, seniors need to move into a living facility that does not allow pets, or the pet outlives them. Both dogs and cats can live 15 to 20 years, so it is important that seniors have a younger friend or family member who is willing to take responsibility for the pet if necessary.
• Is a kitten or adult cat better for your senior – Many people think that getting a kitten or puppy for a senior will help “keep them young,” when in reality, puppies and kittens often provide seniors with more stress than enjoyment. Choosing to adopt an adult cat or dog is generally a wise choice for seniors. Adult animals have fewer exercise and training demands, making them easier for seniors to keep up with. Additionally, older pets are also less likely to outlive their senior owner.
• Talk with shelters to find the right fit for your cat – Arrange to visit your local animal shelter to view the cats available for adoption. Talk to the staff and ask for a calm, easygoing, adult lap cat with minimal medical requirements. The last thing a senior wants is an antisocial cat or one who is prone to urinary tract infections! Once your senior loved one decides on a cat — or two! – you can help shop for pet supplies (including a collar and ID tag) and set everything up  in a convenient location for both owner and kitty.

Support - If you are getting a cat for the senior in your life, make sure you can provide follow-up care and support.  Some seniors are not able to get to the store for needed supplies, while others are dealing with health or behavior problems with the cat and don’t know what to do. Be sure to check in with your loved one and their kitty to make sure things are going well.

If you know of a senior who is having difficulty affording veterinary care or food for a pet, be sure to contact your local animal shelter, food bank or veterinary clinic. Most professionals in the animal field understand how important pets are to seniors, so they may offer low-cost services and supplies just for seniors.

Be Kind To Animals Week

Did you know it is Be Kind to Animals Week?

May 6-12 is Be Kind to Animals Week, and it’s a great time to focus on sharing your love of animals with kids, grand kids, nieces, nephews, students and any other young ones in your life!

We would like to share ASPCA’s Five Tips you can take yourself to celebrate Be Kind To Animals Week:

1. Volunteer Together
Sure, many shelters require volunteers to be 18 to handle animals—but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing kids can do to help! Kids can hold a bake sale for a local shelter, help with web design or do even more. Call your favorite shelter to ask what your kids can do.

2. Write a Letter to Congress
I’m sure you know that animals across the country need our help! But did you know that kids can help, too? Talk about the issues with your kids, then write a letter together.

3. Get Crafty
If you’ve got a future artist on your hands, consider getting messy in the craft room for shelter animals. What can you do? For starters, you can make cat toys for homeless kitties in your area. Check out this page for instructions. (Hint: You’ll need some old socks.) Or you can decorate bandanas to help shelter pets get noticed!

4. Get ‘Em Involved in Pet Care
Whether you decide your 12-year-old is ready for his own guinea pig or you want your 14-year-old to feed the dog dinner each day, getting your kids involved in caring for your pets will help them build a lasting love for animals.

5. Foster a Shelter Animal
Of course, this choice isn’t right for everyone; adding an animal, even temporarily, is a big deal! But there’s no better way to show your kids the beauty of the human-animal bond than saving a life together. If your home has room for one more, Be Kind to Animals Week is a great time to foster a shelter cat or dog who needs some extra attention.

Make sure to comment on our blog if you have any other suggestions of ways to celebrate Be Kind to Animals Week.

Kitty Cool Down Tips for Summertime

With summertime approaching it is important to take extra steps to make sure your pets stay cool.

A cat that becomes overheated in the summer can suffer from dehydration, shallow breathing and can even get heatstroke.

Always provide plenty of clean, fresh water for your fuzzy feline.  Help your kitty enjoy a happy and safe summer this year by following these helpful kitty cool down steps:

• Let Your Cat Decide His Cool Spot – Cats are smart about comfort at all times including during the heat.  Ever notice your cat curling up in the sink or sprawling out on the tile?  Porcelain and tile stay cool even when it’s hot outside providing a great place for your kitty to cool down.
• Calm Kitty – If your cat is running around too much during a really hot day, he will soon become exhausted and dehydrated.  Provide a relaxed, indoor place that is both cool and darkened to allow your kitty to cool down.  Don’t initiate play when he is in an agitated state.
• Create A Hide Out – Use a cardboard box or something else that is out of the way and dark near a cool spot.  You can line it with a terry towel or other type of cotton, breathable natural fabric that isn’t too warm.  Sticking an ice pack inside a sock and placing it in his retreat is also a helpful added cooling affect.
• Shady Garden Area – Make sure your yard has some shady spots for your outdoor cat to enjoy.  If you provide them, your kitty will find them.  It should be somewhere a gentle breeze is available.  If you have outdoor buildings such as greenhouses or sheds, double check you haven’t locked your kitty in there before closing the door.  This could end up killing your cat as temperatures rise in these types of shelters.
• Wet Towels – Most cats don’t like the water however you can help cool your cat down with dampened towels.  If you simply dampen a cloth or paper towel and stroke your cat with it, it can help cool him down.  Good areas to cool down, where cats get warmest, is on their bellies, the pads of their paws, armpits, under their chins and on the outside of their ears.
• Brush Your Cat – This helps take away any matted fur which can trap heat and helps air flow freely through his coat.  This is especially important for long haired breeds of cats.  Do not shave your cat as this can expose your cat to the sun and result in sunburn and skin cancer.
• Always Have Water Available – Dehydration is a real risk for cats during the hot summer months so constant water access is essential. Always, always have water available for your kitty.

Feeding Your Older Cat

Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on feeding your older cat.

Usually once cats reach age seven, they begin to show visible age-related changes.  There are metabolic, immunologic and body composition changes, too. Some of these are unavoidable. Others can be managed with diet.

The following are some tips to keep your older cat on a healthy diet:

Once your cat reaches seven years of age, start your cat on a senior diet.

The main objectives in the feeding an older cat should be to maintain health and optimum body weight, slow or prevent the development of chronic disease, and minimize or improve clinical signs of diseases that may already be present.

As a cat ages, health issues may arise, including:
- deterioration of skin and coat
- loss of muscle mass
- more frequent intestinal problems
- arthritis
- obesity
- dental problems
- decreased ability to fight off infection

Older cats have been shown to progressively put on body fat in spite of consuming fewer calories. This change in body composition is inevitable and may be aggravated by either reduced energy expenditure or a change in metabolic rate. Either way, it is important to feed a diet with a lower caloric density to avoid weight gain, but with a normal protein level to help maintain muscle mass.

Talk to your veterinarian about increasing your senior cat’s vitamin E intake. Antibody response decreases as cats age. Increasing the intake of vitamin E in cats older than seven years of age can increase their antibody levels back to those seen in younger cats!

Antioxidants such as vitamin E and beta-carotene help eliminate free radical particles that can damage body tissues and cause signs of aging. Senior diets for cats should contain higher levels of these antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants can also increase the effectiveness of the immune system in senior cats.

Routine care for geriatric pets should involve a consistent daily routine and periodic veterinary examinations to assess the presence or progress of chronic disease. Stressful situations and abrupt changes in daily routines should be avoided. If a drastic change must be made to an older pet’s routine, try to minimize stress and to realize the change in a gradual manner.

Your Puppy and House Training

Get Your Puppy House Trained!

If you just got a puppy, it is now time to learn how to potty train him.  If you have accidents, you do not want your puppy to go back to that spot to urinate again.  Use Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator to completely eliminate the odors.

We found this article from ASPCA’s website and thought there was a lot of valuable information on potty-training your puppy.

Puppies need to be house trained in order to understand that it’s not okay to eliminate in your house. House training is a simple process, but one that must be carried out positively (without punishment that scares the puppy) and consistently, following two main guidelines: 1) prevent indoor accidents through confinement and close supervision, and 2) take the puppy outside on a frequent and regular schedule and reward him for eliminating where you want him to go. House soiling can occur in any location in the home but sometimes pet parents will notice that their puppy soils more in certain locations, such as infrequently used rooms or on a specific kind of surface. Very young pups (under 12 weeks old) don’t have complete bladder control and might not be able to hold it very long. Older puppies who have had accidents might not have been house trained completely.

Why Puppies You Thought Were Housetrained Might Have Accidents

Too Young to Be Fully House Trained – Some puppies, especially those under 12 weeks of age, haven’t developed bladder or bowel control yet.

Incomplete House Training – Many puppies simply haven’t learned where to eliminate—or they haven’t learned a way to tell their people when they need to go out. Some puppies house soil only under specific conditions. For example, your puppy may soil when he’s home alone for long periods of time, first thing in the morning, sometime during the night, only when you’re not watching or only in infrequently used rooms. Other puppies may urinate or defecate whenever they feel the need to go.

Breakdown in House Training – Sometimes puppies who seem to be house trained at one point regress and start soiling in the house again.

Other Reasons Your Puppy Might House Soil

Urine Marking – If your puppy is over three months of age and urinates small amounts on vertical surfaces, he may be urine marking. Young dogs engaging in this behavior often raise their hind legs when urinating.

Separation Anxiety – If your puppy only soils when he’s left alone in your home, even for short periods of time, he may have separation anxiety. If this is the case, you may notice that he appears nervous or upset right before you leave him by himself or after you’ve left (if you can observe him while he’s alone).

Submissive/Excitement Urination – Your puppy may have a submissive/excitement urination problem if he only urinates during greetings, play, physical contact, scolding or punishment. If this is the case, you may notice your puppy displaying submissive postures during interactions. He may cringe or cower, roll over on his belly, tuck or lower his tail, duck his head, avert his eyes, flatten his ears or all of the above.

Medical Causes for House Soiling – It’s always a good idea to visit your puppy’s veterinarian to rule out medical causes for house soiling. Some common medical reasons for inappropriate urination and defecation follow.

Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) – Puppies with urinary tract infections usually urinate frequently and in small amounts. They may also lick their genital areas more than usual.

Gastrointestinal Upset – If your puppy was house trained but now defecates loose stools or diarrhea in your house, he may have gastrointestinal upset for some reason.

Change in Diet – If you’ve recently changed the amount or type of food you give your puppy, he may develop a house soiling problem. Often, after a diet change, a puppy will defecate loose stools or diarrhea. He may also need to eliminate more frequently or on a different schedule than before the diet change.

Miscellaneous Medical Causes – Other medical causes include abnormalities of the genitalia that cause incontinence (loss of bladder control), various diseases that cause frequent elimination and medications that cause frequent elimination.

How to House Train Your Puppy

House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.”

How Long It Will Take

Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably house trained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.

How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out

All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.

House Training Steps

1. Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
2. Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
3. In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
4. If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
5. Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
6. If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.

What NOT to Do

• Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
• Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
• Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
• Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
• Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
• If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.

For any accidents your puppy makes in the house, make sure to clean the area and sprinkle Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator over the soiled area.  Let sit for 24-48 hours and vacuum it up.  The odor should be completely eliminated and your pet will no longer associate that area with eliminating.

The Laws Of Cat Physics

Cats are very entertaining at times.  We’d like to share some funny Cat Laws of Physics.

Tips On Keeping Your Pet Happy and Active

It seems like the most natural thing in the world—our pets need food, water, medical care and lots of love. But dogs and cats have other needs, too. Our furry friends need ample physical exercise and mental stimulation to lead truly full and happy lives.

“They need jobs,” says Kristen Collins, CPDT, ASPCA Animal Trainer. Dogs and cats need to stay busy and engaged, but unfortunately most pets are unemployed—daily they sit at home, chronically bored and waiting for their humans to return from work. And as we all know, an idle pet can quickly turn into a naughty pet when restlessness becomes overwhelming.

“With nothing to do, dogs and cats are forced to find ways to entertain themselves,” explains Kristen.  “Their activities of choice often include behaviors we find problematic, like excessive barking or meowing, gnawing on shoes, raiding the garbage, eating houseplants and scratching furniture.”

To prevent behavior and health problems, Kristen recommends the following physical and mental workouts—both when you’re there to join the fun and when your pet is home alone.

• Move it! Healthy adult dogs need at least 30 minutes of aerobic exercise twice a day. Jogging, swimming and playing at the dog park are all great ways to burn excess energy.
• Engage in structured games, like fetch and tug-of-war—they’re not only great exercise but also teach your pet impulse control and strengthen the bond between you.
• Keep your dog occupied when he’s home alone by giving him a food-stuffed puzzle toy, like the Kong, or some tasty chew toys.
• Like their canine counterparts, cats also need plenty of aerobic exercise. Get kitty fit with rousing play sessions, such as chase and fetch with furry toys, small balls or toy mice.
• Encourage your cat’s favorite home alone activities, including bird watching, exploring paper bags or boxes, watching cat videos or spending time in secure outdoor enclosures.
• Teach your cat new tricks! Felines are quick studies and can learn practical skills like coming when called, sitting up, rolling over and even using the toilet!

Kristen adds: “The bottom line is that you’re responsible for enriching your pet’s life. Providing opportunities to exercise your cat or dog’s mind and body will keep her healthy and happy—and enhance your relationship, too.”

Info from this article from ASPCA’s website.

Chickens

Did you know it is chick season?  For those of you that have chickens as pets, Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on caring for your chickens.

Remember, to keep chicken odor down, use Clear the Air’s Odor Eliminator – it is non toxic and completely safe even if consumed by your chickens.

Here are some helpful tips on why, what and how for chickens:

Why Raise Chickens?

• Easy and inexpensive to maintain (when compared to most other pets)
• Eggs that are fresh, great-tasting & nutritious
• Chemical-free bug and weed control
• Fun & friendly pets with personality
  

First make sure you can legally own and raise backyard chickens

• Search local chicken laws & ordinances

How To Care For A Chick – First 60 Days:

• A Young Chick Brooder  can be as simple as a sturdy cardboard box or a small animal cage like one you’d use for rabbits.
• Pine shavings work best for flooring.
• The temperature should be 90 to 100 deg. for the first week, decrease 5 deg. per week.  A 100 watt bulb pointing in one corner (not the whole brooder) works well.
• Chick crumbles / starter & a chick waterer work for food and water.
  
• Play with your chicks when young to get the use to being around people.
• Section off an area in your yard where the chicks can explore, scratch, etc.  Make sure you can catch them when it’s time to come in and make sure it is blocked off well enough to keep predators, especially hawks and coyotes, out!
  

Chicken Care After First 60 Days, General Chicken Care:

• Once feathered out you’ll want to move your chickens into a chicken coop.  Rule of thumb is about 2-3 square feet per chicken inside the henhouse and 4-5 sq/ft per chicken in an outside run. Keep local predators in mind and make a safe home for your flock.
• Pine shavings work best for flooring.
• Most people go with chicken layer feed / pellets – available at the Country Feed Store
  
• Vegetables, bread, bugs, chicken scratch (cracked corn, milo, wheat) are great treats for your chicken