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Remove Urine Odor From Carpets and Other Flooring
Posted on January 22nd, 2013Do you have a dog or cat who has urinated in your home? We guarantee 100% the odor will be eliminated with Clear the Air’s Carpet/Furniture Odor Eliminator.
Cat & dog urine odor is one of the strongest and toughest odors to get rid of. Most products on the market are wet and must come into contact with the urine to remove the odor.

This means if you have urine that has soaked into the carpet you must pull up the carpet and pad and soak the carpet, pad and floorboards. What a mess!
With Clear The Air Cat & Dog Urine Odor Eliminator just sprinkle the granules on top of the carpet leave on overnight and vacuum in the morning and the odor is completely eliminated. Works well on all surfaces pulling the odors out of tile and concrete. Will completely eliminate the odors from your litter box, no one will know you have a litter box in the house!
Clear the Air does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the carpet pad, and sub-floor. Clear The Air draws in odors like a powerful magnet. The odors are adsorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances. Clear The Air does not cover up odors; it literally “clears the air” leaving the air fresh and clean. Clear The Air is made from an all-natural mineral, is non-toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth.
It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.
Eliminate Cat Urine Odors From Carpets, Wood Floors, Tile, Concrete or Furniture:
- Remove feces and excess urine.
- Sprinkle granules over area until dry granules are present on top. Also works well on old dry urine odors.
- Leave overnight, then sweep or vacuum.
- Clear The Air pulls odors from carpet, padding, and subfloor.
- Typically one application will eliminate all odors; occasionally a second application is necessary.
- One canister covers 100 square feet.
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Keep Rodents Out Of Your RV
Posted on January 17th, 2013While your RV is in storage this winter, you will want to keep unwanted animals out of your camper. We have some helpful tips from Ehow.com about deterring rodents from your RV.
Remember, if you have the unfortunate experience of opening your RV to find rodents have made their home in your RV for the last few months, eliminate the odor with our collection of Odor Eliminator Products.
Mice and other rodents frequently enter campers and cause damage to the interior. Mice enter through small holes in the exterior of the camper; these holes are usually located on the underside of the structure. Pest control precautions are especially necessary before storing your camper for the season.
What you’ll need to deter rodents from your RV – A can of expandable foam, glue traps and ultrasonic rodent deterrent.
- First you will want to search the exterior of the camper for any holes.
- If you find any, point the can of expandable foam at the holes. Depress the can’s nozzle, and fill the holes with expandable foam. Repeat this process around all unwanted openings.
- Next you will want to place mousetraps around the outside of the camper. This will hinder the mice from entering your camper.
- You might want to also install an ultrasonic rodent-control-device. These devices emit sounds that deter mice from entering the camper.
- Lastly, spread mothballs around the inside of the camper. Please note, if you place mothballs inside the camper AND place your Odor Eliminator Bags in the camper, the bags will work to eliminate the moth ball odor, thus less efficiently removing any dead rodent odors. Our suggestion is to take the moth balls out of your RV should you already have odors from rodents, then place the Odor Eliminator Bags in the camper.
Have questions about odors in your RV? Please contact our customer service (located in the USA) and we’d be happy to help answer any questions you may have.
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Tips To House Train Your Puppy
Posted on January 9th, 2013How to House Train Your Puppy. The following is an article from the ASPCA about house training your puppy.
If you have accidents in your home from your puppy, please remember to use Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator. We guarantee it will work 100%.
House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.”
How Long It Will Take – Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably housetrained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.
How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out – All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.
House Training Steps
1. Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
2. Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
3. In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
4. If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
5. Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
6. If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.
Additional House Training Tips
- Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleanser to minimize odors that might attract the puppy back to the same spot.
- Once your puppy is house trained in your home, he may still have accidents when visiting others’ homes. That’s because puppies need to generalize their learning to new environments. Just because they seem to know something in one place does NOT mean that they’ll automatically know that thing everywhere. You’ll need to watch your puppy carefully when you visit new places together and be sure to take him out often.
- Likewise, if something in your puppy’s environment changes, he may have a lapse in house training. For example, a puppy might seem completely house trained until you bring home a large potted tree—which may look to him like a perfect place to lift his leg!
House training does require an investment of time and effort—but it can be done! If you’re consistent, your hard work will pay off. Hang in there! If you need help, don’t hesitate to contact a qualified professional, such as a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or Associate CAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB).
What NOT to Do:
- Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
- Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
- Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
- Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
- Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
- If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.
- Do not clean with an ammonia-based cleanser. Urine contains ammonia. Cleaning with ammonia could attract your puppy back to the same spot to urinate again. Instead, use an enzymatic cleaner. You can find one at some grocery stores or any major pet store.
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New Year’s Eve Pet Safety
Posted on December 31st, 2012Keeping Your Pets Safe On New Year’s Eve
When you are welcoming in the New Year tonight, keep in mind your pets and other animals may not be so enthusiastic about the noise.
Pet’s ears tend to suffer from the noise made by firecrackers blasts, causing them to tremble, bark excessively, refuse to eat food, hide or run away and sometimes even lose bowel control. Besides the noise, fireworks also produce plumes of smoke that may harm animal’s respiratory systems.
Follow these helpful tips from PETA on how to keep pets and other animals safe during New Year festivities:
- Keep cats and dogs indoors in a room where they feel safe during fireworks displays and, if possible, stay with them.
- Act happy and calm around scared animals in order to reinforce the idea that they don’t have a reason to be afraid.
- Leave your animals at home during the celebrations – never take them with you to watch firecracker displays.
- Never leave animals tethered or chained outside.
- Close your windows and curtains. Turn on a radio that’s tuned to a classical music station, or turn on the TV to help drown out the sound of the fireworks.
- Watch for stray animals who may be distressed. If you see an animal injured by fireworks, call your local Humane Society.
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Skin and Paw Care Tips For The Winter
Posted on December 28th, 2012Now is the time to visit the mountains and go skiing or take a trip to the snow with your family. If you are bringing your dog with you, please keep these winter tips from the ASPCA in mind.
Exposure to winter’s dry, cold air and chilly rain, sleet and snow can cause chapped paws and itchy, flaking skin, but these aren’t the only discomforts pets can suffer. Winter walks can become downright dangerous if chemicals from ice-melting agents are licked off of bare paws.
Says Dr. Louise Murray, ASPCA Director of Medicine, “During the winter, products used as de-icers on sidewalks and other areas can lead to trouble for our animal companions, potentially causing problems ranging from sore feet to internal toxicity. Pet parents should take precautions to minimize their furry friends’ exposure to such agents.”
To help prevent cold weather dangers from affecting your pet’s paws and skin, please heed the following advice from our experts:
- Repeatedly coming out of the cold into the dry heat can cause itchy, flaking skin. Keep your home humidified and towel dry your pet as soon as he comes inside, paying special attention to his feet and in between the toes.
- Trim long-haired dogs to minimize the clinging of ice balls, salt crystals and de-icing chemicals that can dry on the skin. (Don’t neglect the hair between the toes!)
- Bring a towel on long walks to clean off stinging, irritated paws. After each walk, wash and dry your pet’s feet to remove ice, salt and chemicals—and check for cracks in paw pads or redness between the toes.
- Bathe your pets as little as possible during cold spells. Washing too often can remove essential oils and increase the chance of developing dry, flaky skin. If your pooch must be bathed, ask your vet to recommend a moisturizing shampoo and/or rinse.
- Dressing your pet in a sweater or coat will help to retain body heat and prevent skin from getting dry.
- Booties help minimize contact with painful salt crystals, poisonous anti-freeze and chemical ice-melting agents. They can also help prevent sand and salt from getting lodged in between bare toes, causing irritation. Use pet-friendly ice melts whenever possible.
- Massaging petroleum jelly into paw pads before going outside helps to protect from salt and chemical agents. And moisturizing after a good toweling off helps to heal chapped paws.
- Brushing your pet regularly not only gets rid of dead hair, but also stimulates blood circulation, improving the skin’s overall condition.
- Pets burn extra energy by trying to stay warm in wintertime, sometimes causing dehydration. Feeding your pet a little bit more during the cold weather and making sure she has plenty of water to drink will help to keep her well-hydrated, and her skin less dry.
- Remember, if the weather’s too cold for you, it’s probably too cold for your pet. Animal companions should remain indoors as much as possible during the winter months and never be left alone in vehicles when the mercury drops.
For more information about pet care in winter, please read our Top Ten Cold Weather Tips. If you spot wounds or redness on your pet’s feet, please contact your veterinarian immediately.
Read more at: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/top-ten-winter-skin-paw-care-tips
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San Diego Humane Society Reunites Family With Cat
Posted on December 27th, 2012This is such an amazing story and what a GREAT Christmas gift!
SAN DIEGO – It’s a very Merry Christmas for a cat named Sophia, who went missing from her family in Arizona seven years ago and found her way to the San Diego Humane Society and Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals over the weekend.
According to the Humane Society, staff members were able to contact Sophia’s family thanks to her microchip.
A Humane Society staff member will be flying the cat back to Phoenix on Wednesday.
“We heard that the family was unable to get Sophia back home to Arizona so we decided to do whatever it takes to get her back to them,” said Gary Weitzman, president of the SDHS and SPCA . “Everyone deserves to be home for the holidays, so we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to get Sophia back to her family. This is another great testament to the importance of the microchip.”
Sophia’s mom, Trish Oster said, “I was shocked to hear that she was ok after seven years. I didn’t know how I was going to manage getting her from San Diego. I’m so grateful to the San Diego Humane Society for bringing my Sophia back to me. It’s the best Christmas gift I could have asked for.”
Read entire article here: http://www.10news.com/news/san-diego-humane-society-reunites-cat-lost-for-7-years-with-arizona-family12242012
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Caring For Your Cat And Watching For Illness
Posted on December 13th, 2012Cats are good at hiding how they feel if they are ill and the older a cat gets, the longer it takes for them to recover from an illness.
It is important to pay attention to your cat as he ages and catch any problems before they become very serious.
If you are close with your cat, you can usually tell if something is different or not right with him. Don’t discount that feeling that something doesn’t seem right. Because of the love and close relationship you share with your feline, you have an advantage to knowing when something is wrong.
In fact, change in behavior is the number one way a cat will tell you he’s not feeling right. Changes in behavior can be sudden or may develop over time. When your cat begins to age, it is important to make important enrichment to his nutrition, grooming needs and home life.
It is a good idea to keep a log of some of your cat’s normal activities. Since changes in your cat’s behavior are the best sign that he isn’t feeling good, knowing what is normal and abnormal for him will help nip a potentially fatal illness in the bud.
If your cat normally chases after his toys, make a note of that. If he wakes you up every morning then suddenly stops, this could be an indication of arthritis and it may hurt too much to jump on the bed.
It is also important to note how often your cat eats and drinks. If he always runs to his food bowl when he hears you pour more in and suddenly stops doing this, something may be going on with him. Keeping note of his appetite, weight, water intake, urination and defecation, skin and fur, respiration and other habits of your cat will let you quickly identify if he isn’t feeling well.
If you have any concerns your cat may be sick, take him to the vet immediately. If your cat has accidents in the house, use Clear the Air to eliminate cat urine odor.
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Keep Your Cat’s Litter Box Smelling Its Best
Posted on December 12th, 2012Do you have a cat? Are you regularly reminded you have one by the way your litter box smells?
If you are expecting company for the holidays, you will probably want to keep Clear the Air on hand to sprinkle on your cats litter box to make the odor non-existent while making the litter box more appealing for your cat.
We have provided some helpful cat litter tips:
Scooping – The number one rule, and the only thing that will keep litter box odor at bay, is constant cleaning. That means scooping the box out at least twice a day, removing the solids and liquid clumps if you use clumping litter. If you don’t use clumping litter, you can use a large solid metal spoon to lift out the most urine-soaked areas each time you clean and add litter as needed to replace what is removed.
Washing Your Litter Box – You should also get in the habit of washing the litter box at least every other week if not more. Use a mild unscented dish detergent and rinse clean. Remember to clean your scooper too. When the box is dry, sprinkle a thin layer of our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator in the box first. Then add two to three inches of litter. Cats do not like a deep tray of litter and this allows you to add litter as you scoop.
Type of Litter – Some have perfumes and others have additives to only cover the smell. To a cat, these smells can be overwhelming and make the box unwelcoming. It is usually a good idea to get unscented litter and sprinkle our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator in the box to eliminate the odor, not cover it up.
Type of Litter Box – Using the largest box your home can accommodate is the best idea. A good rule of thumb is to get a box that is at least twice as long as your adult cat and wide as the cat is long. Even though a covered box is nicer to look at, most cats don’t like them and they also trap odors inside making it unpleasant for your pet to enter. Cats claws can get stuck in liners when they are digging for a place to relieve themselves and the urine can also seep into the liner, trapping odors in the box.
Location – Lastly, location of your cats litter box is very important to keep your pet happy to relieve himself in the correct areas. The rule is one litter box per cat plus one. If your cat is on the third floor of your house and the litter box is in the basement, he may not decide to make the long trek. It is important to have the boxes in different locations. Also make sure the box is in a low traffic area, away from his or her food and in a place that your cat can easily get in and out of.
These suggestions may take a lot of effort but not only with your cat be happier but you will as well, not having to put up with cat urine odors. Remember to pick up Clear the Air’s Cat Urine Odor Eliminator available at all Petco stores or online.
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Hurricane Sandy – We Want To Help
Posted on November 30th, 2012Our hearts go out to Hurricane Sandy victims…there is still so much clean up to be done on the East Coast and we want to help. Please watch our special Hurricane Sandy video:
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San Diego Humane Society’s Hidden Gem Spotlight
Posted on November 26th, 2012This week we are promoting Benji! He is looking for his forever home…do you have room in your heart for Benji?
Watch Benji’s video and see his goofiness & enthusiasm come to life!

Benji is a sweet, one-year old Pit Bull/Lab Retriever mix who is as lovable as he is cute! Still an exuberant pup, Benji approaches life with enthusiasm and plenty of curiosity. Although he had a tough start in life that has left him a bit shy, he is becoming more and more social daily, and Benji’s current foster mom reports that he is doing very well, having fun, and wagging that tail of his more than ever!
This sweet guy will need some extra time and patience from the lucky family who adopts him. The world around him can seem very new and scary, so Benji appreciates slow introductions and lots of love to help him overcome some of his fears. In addition to playing with tennis balls and being his energetic and goofy self, Benji also knows how to relax with the best of ’em and enjoys spending plenty of quality time snuggling on the couch.
Benji’s adoption fee of $75 includes his neuter, current vaccinations, permanent microchip identification, a certificate for a free veterinary exam, a bag of food from Hill’s Science Diet and a license if residing in Oceanside or Vista! This very special hidden gem of ours is currently in foster care. If you are interested in meeting him or getting more information, please contact Customer Service at (619) 299-7012.
Animal ID 94566
