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Proper Cleaning for your Reptile’s Cage
Posted on April 23rd, 2012Cage maintenance for your reptile should receive proper attention.
Reptiles are susceptible to bacterial infections of the skin and digestive tract so cages and housing must be thoroughly and regularly cleaned. In order to a safe and healthy home for your reptile, routine cage maintenance is necessary by keeping the cage odor-free. It is ideal to place an Odor Remover Bag in the cage to help keep away any foul odors. Clear the Air is completely non-toxic and 100% safe around all types of animals.
Certain precautions need to be taken during cleaning since the fecal matter of reptiles may harbor harmful bacteria such as Salmonella. It is most commonly transmitted to humans through oral ingestion after handling a reptile or contaminated equipment, through open cuts or sores during handling, or through contact with contaminated soil or environmental items. For this reason, your reptile’s cage, furnishings, and cleaning equipment need to be cleaned regularly and periodically disinfected. Sprinkling Clear the Air’s Odor Eliminator will eliminate any odors in your cage and will help to keep your reptile enjoying his home.Wear protective gloves during maintenance and wash your hands thoroughly with hot, soapy water after handling reptiles, reptile cages and equipment, and the stool of reptiles.
Cage Accessories – Before introducing natural items such as rocks and branches into your reptile’s home, make sure they are sterile. Rocks should be thoroughly cleaned and then boiled in water for 30 minutes. Sand can be rinsed with large amounts of water to remove any particulate matter and then heated in an oven at 200-250°F for 30 minutes. Branches should also be cleaned and heated in the same manner.
How Often Should You Clean – The frequency and degree of routine cage cleaning will vary from species to species depending on the size and habits of your reptile. Always read and learn as much as possible regarding the needs and preferences of your reptile, and tailor your cleaning schedule around the needs of your particular pet. For example, cages of large iguanas require more work than those of a snake. As you become more familiar with the needs of your pet, you may have to alter your cleaning schedule as needed. However, in general, you will need to:
- Perform daily cleaning to remove spills, uneaten food, shed skin, and other waste materials. Clean and disinfect food and water dishes daily when providing fresh food and water.
- Clean and disinfect the entire cage, substrate, and decorations weekly.
The use of rubber or latex gloves and protective goggles are recommended during cleaning. Wash your hands thoroughly after every contact with your reptile and every cleaning procedure, no matter how brief, to avoid transmission of harmful bacteria. Use a hand sanitizer or antibacterial soap to further minimize any risk.Cleaning Routine – As part of your daily cleaning routine, you should remove feces and any uneaten food. Wipe up water spills and urates. If you are using a sand substrate, you can use a Shovel Scooper to clean and extend the use of the sand substrate. If the inside of the cage has stubborn material that requires a cleaning solution, remove and temporarily relocate your reptile to a clean spare cage. Wait until the cage is completely dry and free of fumes before returning your pet.
Wash food and water dishes in hot soapy water and dry thoroughly. Use a disinfectant or antibacterial soap to sanitize. Be sure to rinse thoroughly, leaving no trace of soap or disinfectant behind. To make the cleaning process more efficient, consider having two or more sets of dishes. By doing so, you can quickly and easily replace one set while the other is being cleaned.
Monthly Cleaning – Temporarily relocate your reptile to a clean spare cage while cleaning the main cage. Start by removing all decorations in the cage. Bag and discard disposable substrate. Loosen hardened material with a commercial reptile-safe cleaner, a toothbrush or other applicable tools from your special tool kit. Thoroughly clean all cage surfaces with hot soapy water and rinse and dry well.
Wash all decorations, food/water dishes and non-disposable substrate such as indoor/outdoor carpet with hot soapy water. Scrub with brushes to remove wastes and dried liquids, and rinse well. After the entire cage and all accessories are cleaned and thoroughly rinsed, sanitize them by using a disinfectant. Then, rinse the cage, accessories, and decorations with hot water, to remove any residues.
Air dry all items completely before putting everything back together. Re-install everything when completely dry. Replace natural wood or any decoration that will not dry easily with easier to clean artificial decorations. If bathing is recommended for your reptile, it’s a good idea to bathe your reptile before introducing him into his clean, dry, and odor-free cage.
After cleaning your reptile cage, always remember to thoroughly clean and disinfect all the cleaning items you used, including the sink. Don’t forget to wash your hands as well. By taking proper precautions, you can create an environment that is safe for both you and your pet reptile.
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Allergic to pets? Learn how you can still keep your furry companions!
Posted on April 19th, 2012Are you allergic to pets?
You love dogs and cats and wish you could have one but your allergies tell you otherwise.
There is hope though! Read this article we found on the ASPCA’s website which tells how you can still keep your furry companion and breathe easy.
Although more and more people are discovering the beneficial effects of owning a furry bundle of joy, the fact remains that roughly 15 to 20 percent of the population is allergic to animals. The result? Countless owners in unhappy, unhealthy situations—and their beloved pets are the cause! Allergen is the medical term for the actual substance that causes an allergic reaction. Touching or inhaling allergens leads to reactions in allergic individuals. Symptoms can include red, itchy, watery eyes and nose; sneezing; coughing; scratchy or sore throat; itchy skin, and most serious of all, difficulty breathing.
The most common pet allergens are proteins found in their dander (scales of old skin that are constantly shed by an animal), saliva, urine and sebaceous cells. Any animal can trigger an allergic response, but cats are the most common culprits. People can also become allergic to the urine, dander and saliva of exotic pets such as ferrets, guinea pigs, birds, rabbits and rodents. There is no species or breed to which humans cannot develop allergies. Fur length and type will not affect or prevent allergies. Certain pets can be less irritating than others to those who suffer from allergies, but that is strictly on an individual basis and cannot be predicted.
Once the diagnosis of a pet allergy is made, a physician will often recommend eliminating the companion animal from the surroundings. Heartbreaking? Yes. Absolutely necessary? Not always. Keep in mind that most people are allergic to several things besides pets, such as dust mites, molds and pollens, all of which can be found in the home. Allergic symptoms result from the total cumulative allergen load. That means that if you eliminate some of the other allergens, you may not have to get rid of your pet. (Conversely, should you decide to remove your pet from your home, this may not immediately solve your problems.) You must also be prepared to invest the time and effort needed to decontaminate your home environment, limit future exposure to allergens and find a physician who will work with you. Our three-part program follows:
Improving the Immediate Environment
- Create an allergen-free room. A bedroom is often the best and most practical choice. By preventing your pet from entering this room, you can ensure at least eight hours of freedom from allergens every night. It’s a good idea to use hypoallergenic bedding and pillow materials.
- Limit fabrics. Allergens collect in rugs, drapes and upholstery, so do your best to limit or eliminate them from your home. If you choose to keep some fabrics, steam-clean them regularly. Cotton-covered furniture is the smartest choice, and washable blinds or shades make good window treatments.
- Vacuum frequently using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate arresting) filter or a disposable electrostatic bag. Other kinds of bags will permit allergens to blow back out of the vacuum.
- Install an air purifier fitted with a HEPA filter. Our modern, energy-efficient homes lock in air that is loaded with allergens, so it’s smart to let in some fresh air daily.
- Use anti-allergen room sprays. These sprays deactivate allergens, rendering them harmless. Ask your allergist for a product recommendation.
- Clean the litter box frequently. Use lowdust, perfume-free filler. Clumping litter is a good choice.
- Dust regularly. Wiping down the walls will also cut down on allergens.
- Invest in washable pet bedding and cages that can be cleaned often and easily.
Decontaminating Your Pet
- Bathe your pet at least once a week. Your veterinarian can recommend a shampoo that won’t dry out his skin. Bathing works to wash off the allergens that accumulate in an animal’s fur.
- Wipe your pet with a product formulated to prevent dander from building up and flaking off into the environment. Ask your veterinarian to suggest one that is safe to use on animals who groom themselves.
- Note any symptoms of dermatitis exhibited by your companion animal. Dermatitis often leads to accelerated skin and fur shedding, which will up your allergen exposure.
- Brush or comb your pet frequently. It’s best to do this outdoors, if possible. (The ASPCA does not recommend keeping cats outdoors, so make sure your feline is leashed if you take him outside.)
Taking Care of Yourself
- If possible, have someone other than yourself do the housecleaning, litter box work and pet washing, wiping and brushing. If you must clean the house or change the litter, be sure to wear a dust mask.
- Wash your hands after handling your companion animal and before touching your face. The areas around your nose and eyes are particularly sensitive to allergens.
- Designate a “pet outfit” from among your most easily washed clothes. Wear it when playing or cuddling with your companion, and you’ll leave other clothing uncontaminated.
- Find a physician, preferably an allergy specialist, who will make sure that your pet is the cause of your allergies and will help alleviate your symptoms. Medications and immunotherapy (desensitizing shots) can often allow you and your companion animal to remain together happily ever after.
Article from ASPCA’s website.
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Boat Odors – Eliminate Them!
Posted on April 18th, 2012Do you or someone you know own a boat? Even if you have simply been on a boat at one time in your life, you probably remember a foul odor coming from somewhere on the boat.
Boats typically are filled with powerful odors such as bilge odors, mold and mildew odors, fuel odors, head and holding tank odors, galley odors, smoke odors and pet odors.
As you can see, many odors can inhibit boats and yachts and it is sometimes impossible to remove these odors. In the past boat owners have had to use caustic chemicals, expensive detailing, air purifiers and caustic ozone machines to rid their boat of odors. Now there is a solution to odor removal that is simple, easy to use and cost effective.
Earth Care Odor Remover Bags can simply be hung in your boat and they will completely eliminate all these odors. These odor remover bags draw in odors like a powerful magnet. The odors are absorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances. Earth Care is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth. It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.
Earth Care’s Odor Remover Bags do not have to come in contact with the odor producer to eliminate the odor. It does not cover up odors, but literally “clears the air” leaving the air fresh and clean.
Follow the instructions below to use Earth Care’s Odor Remover Bags to completely eliminate odors from your boat or yacht:
- Hang one bag in each bilge compartment, the head, the galley, the forward cabin and aft cabins. Some air circulation such as an open hatch is needed. Do not put bag directly in standing water.
- All odors are typically eliminated in 24 hours. The bags will continue to eliminate new odors for up to 3 months. Each bag will cover approximately 100 square feet.
- Do not set bag in direct sun.
- If there are strong odors in your boat you may also want to sprinkle Clear The Air Odor Eliminator for Carpets and Furniture on all upholstery and carpet. Leave down overnight and vacuum. All odors will be completely eliminated.
If you have any questions or comments on our product, please Contact Us.
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Traveling With Your Dog – What To Know
Posted on April 16th, 2012Dog are a part of our every day life. When we go on vacation, it is nice to be able to bring our faithful companion on our travels with us.
However, there are some things to keep in mind when traveling with your dog to make sure he/she is safe and has an enjoyable trip.
First, you should make sure to bring your dog to the vet’s for a check up before going on an extended trip. Make sure all his vaccinations are up to date; shot records with you. Health certifications are required for airline travel. To keep your dog healthy as you travel, bring along a supply of his regular food and some local, or bottled, water. Be sure to bring any medications he needs.
A crate is an excellent way to keep your dog safe in the car, and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet supply stores. Look for these features when purchasing:
- Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn and lie down.
- Strong, with handles and grips, and free of interior protrusions.
- Leak-proof bottom covered with absorbent material.
- Ventilation on opposing sides, with exterior rims or knobs to prevent blocked airflow.
- “Live Animal” label, arrows upright, with owner’s name, address and phone number.
- Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favorite toy, and a water bottle, and your dog is ready to go.
In the event that your dog gets away from you on your trip, you can increase the chances of recovery by making sure he can be properly identified. Make sure your dog has a sturdy leash and collar. The collar should have identification tags with the dog’s name, your name, and your home phone number, as well as proof of rabies shots. Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip and bring a recent picture of your dog along with you.
If you are traveling by car, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:
- Get your dog used to the car by letting him sit in it with you without leaving the driveway, and then going for short rides.
- Avoid car sickness by letting your dog travel on an empty stomach. However, make sure he has plenty of water at all times.
- Keep the car well-ventilated. If the dog is in a crate, make sure that fresh air can flow into the crate.
- Do not let your dog ride with his head sticking out of an open window. This can lead to eye injuries.
- Never let your dog ride in the back of an open truck. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to severe injuries or death.
- Stop frequently for exercise and potty breaks. Be sure to clean up after your dog.
- Car rides are boring for everyone, so instruct your children not to tease or annoy the dog in the car.
- Never, ever leave your dog unattended in a closed vehicle, particularly in the summer. See Summer Safety Tips for more information. If you must leave the car, designate a member of the family to stay with the dog.
If you are traveling by plane, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:
- Each airline has its own set of rules for canine air travel. You should call for information and make arrangements well in advance of your trip.
- All airlines require health certifications and proof of vaccinations.
- Some airlines will not transport animals when it is extremely hot or cold.
- Dogs must be in an airline-approved crate when transported as cargo. Small dogs may ride under the seat in a crate or carrier.
If you plan to travel with your dog by train or bus, you may be disappointed. Dogs are not permitted on Amtrak trains or on buses operated by Greyhound and other interstate bus companies. (Service dogs are permitted.) Local rail and bus companies have their own policies.
You may fare better if you’re taking a cruise. The QE2 luxury cruiser, which sails from New York to England/France, provides special lodging and free meals for your dog. However, you should check the policies of the cruise line or ship you will be traveling on before making plans to take your dog on a cruise with you.
Before you set out to your vacation destination, find out in advance which hotels or motels at your destination or on your route allow dogs. Many do not, or have size or breed restrictions. If your dog is allowed to stay at a hotel, respect other guests, staff and the property and keep your dog as quiet as possible. Do not leave the dog unattended. Many dogs will bark or destroy property if left alone in a strange place. It is important to ask the management where you should walk your dog, and pick up after him, making sure not to not leave any mess behind. Remember that one bad experience with a dog guest may prompt the hotel management to refuse to allow any dogs. Be considerate of others and leave your room and the grounds in good condition.
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Feeding Your Older Cat
Posted on April 13th, 2012Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on feeding your older cat.
Usually once cats reach age seven, they begin to show visible age-related changes. There are metabolic, immunologic and body composition changes, too. Some of these are unavoidable. Others can be managed with diet.
The following are some tips to keep your older cat on a healthy diet:
Once your cat reaches seven years of age, start your cat on a senior diet.
The main objectives in the feeding an older cat should be to maintain health and optimum body weight, slow or prevent the development of chronic disease, and minimize or improve clinical signs of diseases that may already be present.
As a cat ages, health issues may arise, including:
– deterioration of skin and coat
– loss of muscle mass
– more frequent intestinal problems
– arthritis
– obesity
– dental problems
– decreased ability to fight off infectionOlder cats have been shown to progressively put on body fat in spite of consuming fewer calories. This change in body composition is inevitable and may be aggravated by either reduced energy expenditure or a change in metabolic rate. Either way, it is important to feed a diet with a lower caloric density to avoid weight gain, but with a normal protein level to help maintain muscle mass.
Talk to your veterinarian about increasing your senior cat’s vitamin E intake. Antibody response decreases as cats age. Increasing the intake of vitamin E in cats older than seven years of age can increase their antibody levels back to those seen in younger cats!
Antioxidants such as vitamin E and beta-carotene help eliminate free radical particles that can damage body tissues and cause signs of aging. Senior diets for cats should contain higher levels of these antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants can also increase the effectiveness of the immune system in senior cats.
Routine care for geriatric pets should involve a consistent daily routine and periodic veterinary examinations to assess the presence or progress of chronic disease. Stressful situations and abrupt changes in daily routines should be avoided. If a drastic change must be made to an older pet’s routine, try to minimize stress and to realize the change in a gradual manner.
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Your Puppy and House Training
Posted on April 12th, 2012Get Your Puppy House Trained!
If you just got a puppy, it is now time to learn how to potty train him. If you have accidents, you do not want your puppy to go back to that spot to urinate again. Use Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator to completely eliminate the odors.
We found this article from ASPCA’s website and thought there was a lot of valuable information on potty-training your puppy.
Puppies need to be house trained in order to understand that it’s not okay to eliminate in your house. House training is a simple process, but one that must be carried out positively (without punishment that scares the puppy) and consistently, following two main guidelines: 1) prevent indoor accidents through confinement and close supervision, and 2) take the puppy outside on a frequent and regular schedule and reward him for eliminating where you want him to go. House soiling can occur in any location in the home but sometimes pet parents will notice that their puppy soils more in certain locations, such as infrequently used rooms or on a specific kind of surface. Very young pups (under 12 weeks old) don’t have complete bladder control and might not be able to hold it very long. Older puppies who have had accidents might not have been house trained completely.
Why Puppies You Thought Were Housetrained Might Have Accidents
Too Young to Be Fully House Trained – Some puppies, especially those under 12 weeks of age, haven’t developed bladder or bowel control yet.
Incomplete House Training – Many puppies simply haven’t learned where to eliminate—or they haven’t learned a way to tell their people when they need to go out. Some puppies house soil only under specific conditions. For example, your puppy may soil when he’s home alone for long periods of time, first thing in the morning, sometime during the night, only when you’re not watching or only in infrequently used rooms. Other puppies may urinate or defecate whenever they feel the need to go.
Breakdown in House Training – Sometimes puppies who seem to be house trained at one point regress and start soiling in the house again.
Other Reasons Your Puppy Might House Soil
Urine Marking – If your puppy is over three months of age and urinates small amounts on vertical surfaces, he may be urine marking. Young dogs engaging in this behavior often raise their hind legs when urinating.
Separation Anxiety – If your puppy only soils when he’s left alone in your home, even for short periods of time, he may have separation anxiety. If this is the case, you may notice that he appears nervous or upset right before you leave him by himself or after you’ve left (if you can observe him while he’s alone).
Submissive/Excitement Urination – Your puppy may have a submissive/excitement urination problem if he only urinates during greetings, play, physical contact, scolding or punishment. If this is the case, you may notice your puppy displaying submissive postures during interactions. He may cringe or cower, roll over on his belly, tuck or lower his tail, duck his head, avert his eyes, flatten his ears or all of the above.
Medical Causes for House Soiling – It’s always a good idea to visit your puppy’s veterinarian to rule out medical causes for house soiling. Some common medical reasons for inappropriate urination and defecation follow.
Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) – Puppies with urinary tract infections usually urinate frequently and in small amounts. They may also lick their genital areas more than usual.
Gastrointestinal Upset – If your puppy was house trained but now defecates loose stools or diarrhea in your house, he may have gastrointestinal upset for some reason.
Change in Diet – If you’ve recently changed the amount or type of food you give your puppy, he may develop a house soiling problem. Often, after a diet change, a puppy will defecate loose stools or diarrhea. He may also need to eliminate more frequently or on a different schedule than before the diet change.
Miscellaneous Medical Causes – Other medical causes include abnormalities of the genitalia that cause incontinence (loss of bladder control), various diseases that cause frequent elimination and medications that cause frequent elimination.
How to House Train Your Puppy
House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.”
How Long It Will Take
Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably house trained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.
How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out
All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.
House Training Steps
- Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
- Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
- In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
- If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
- Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
- If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.
What NOT to Do
- Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
- Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
- Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
- Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
- Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
- If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.
For any accidents your puppy makes in the house, make sure to clean the area and sprinkle Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator over the soiled area. Let sit for 24-48 hours and vacuum it up. The odor should be completely eliminated and your pet will no longer associate that area with eliminating.
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Senior Dog – Tips To Keep Him In His Best Health
Posted on April 11th, 2012Senior dogs make great companions and are perfect adoptable pets as they are past their puppy stage and provide unconditional love during their “golden years”.
Clear the Air supports adoption and senior pets usually get looked over because of their age. Adopting an older pet has many benefits and we’d like to share some tips with you to keep your senior pet healthy.
The following are tips for keeping your senior dog healthy:
- Make your senior dog as much a part of your life as possible, and do all you can to keep him interested, active, happy and comfortable.
- Establish a relationship with the best veterinarian you can find. For most older dogs, it is advisable to make an appointment with the vet every six months. Your vet should be someone whom you trust and with whom you feel very comfortable.
- Become informed about the conditions common to older dogs and the therapies used for them. Be alert to symptoms, bring them to your vet’s attention promptly, and be prepared to discuss treatment options.
- Feed your older dog the best food you can afford; consider feeding him a home-prepared diet and two small meals daily rather than one large one.
- Don’t overfeed your dog. Obesity will create health problems and shorten his life.
- Consider the use of dietary supplements such as glucosamine/chondroitin for arthritis.
- Give your senior dog adequate exercise, but adjust it to her changing abilities.
- Attend to your dog’s dental health. Brush her teeth daily and have them cleaned professionally whenever your vet advises it.
- Tell your vet you wish to have your dog vaccinated only once every three years, as currently advised by the major veterinary associations.
- Be diligent in controlling fleas and ticks, and keep your dog and his environment scrupulously clean.
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Dog Activities
Posted on April 9th, 2012Earth Care would like to share some great activities for you and your dog to do together.
If you are gone during the day and your dog is left alone, it is a very good idea to make sure you set time aside each day to spend with your dog so you make sure to give him/her the attention he needs. Check out some of these Dog Activities you and your pet can do together.
Play Ball – Many types of breeds like terriers love balls. A lot of dogs will fetch the ball after you throw it and once that starts your dog won’t leave you alone, asking you to throw the ball over and over again. Tennis balls are inexpensive and can provide entertainment for hours for your dog.
Take a Walk – Spend quality time with your dog by taking a walk together. This provides health benefits for both of you. Did you know dogs have a natural migration instinct and need to go on walks daily to become mentally sound?
Swimming – Take your dog to the lake. Some dog breeds love water and you can throw a ball into the water and your dog can get exercise by fetching the ball in the water.
Create a Job for Your Pet – Use the internet or your local library to find training methods that are useful for search and rescue, sledding or cart pulling. Long ago, your dog was bred for a certain purpose and most dogs are happier if they are working.
Grooming – You can groom your own dog and save money on bathing and grooming charges. Most dogs enjoy being groomed and when they look good, they feel good. This also creates an opportunity for you to learn your dogs body so you can know when something doesn’t look or feel right.
Therapy Dog – Taking your dog to a nursing home, hospital or group home for people with developmental disabilities is both rewarding for you and your dog. Dogs can lessen stress and always bring a smile to those around them.
Quality Time – More than anything, your dog just wants to be around you. Even if it involves taking a nap next to each other or watching TV together, your dog is satisfied just being with you.
Dog Park – Do a local search on the internet for dog parks near you. This is a great opportunity for your dog to exercise and socialize with other dogs.
Pets play a big role in our lives and they are most often considered part of the family. Remember to use Clear the Air’s Odor Eliminator to remove any urine or feces odors which may have been caused by your pet.
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The Laws Of Cat Physics
Posted on April 6th, 2012Cats are very entertaining at times. We’d like to share some funny Cat Laws of Physics.
Law of Cat Inertia A cat at rest will tend to remain at rest, unless acted upon by some outside force – such as the opening of cat food, or a nearby scurrying mouse. Law of Cat Motion A cat will move in a straight line, unless there is a really good reason to change direction. Law of Cat Magnetism All blue blazers and black sweaters attract cat hair in direct proportion to the darkness of the fabric. Law of Cat Thermodynamics Heat flows from a warmer to a cooler body, except in the case of a cat, in which case all heat flows to the cat. Law of Cat Stretching A cat will stretch to a distance proportional to the length of the nap just taken. Law of Cat Sleeping All cats must sleep with people whenever possible, in a position as uncomfortable for the people involved, and as comfortable as possible for the cat. Law of Cat Elongation A cat can make her body long enough to reach just about any counter top that has anything remotely interesting on it. Law of Cat Obstruction A cat must lay on the floor in such a position to obstruct the maximum amount of human foot traffic. Law of Cat Acceleration A cat will accelerate at a constant rate, until he gets good and ready to stop. Law of Dinner Table Attendance Cats must attend all meals when anything good is served. Law of Rug Configuration No rug may remain in its naturally flat state for very long. Law of Obedience Resistance A cat’s resistance varies in proportion to a human’s desire for her to do something. First Law of Energy Conservation Cats know that energy can neither be created nor destroyed and will, therefore, use as little energy as possible. Second Law of Energy Conservation Cats also know that energy can only be stored by a lot of napping. Law of Refrigerator Observation If a cat watches a refrigerator long enough, someone will come along and take out something good to eat. Law of Electric Blanket Attraction Turn on an electric blanket and a cat will jump into bed at the speed of light. Law of Random Comfort Seeking A cat will always seek, and usually take over, the most comfortable spot in any given room. Law of Bag/Box Occupancy All bags and boxes in a given room must contain a cat within the earliest possible nanosecond. Law of Cat Embarrassment A cat’s irritation rises in direct proportion to her embarrassment times the amount of human laughter. Law of Milk Consumption A cat will drink his weight in milk, squared, just to show you he can. Law of Furniture Replacement A cat’s desire to scratch furniture is directly proportional to the cost of the furniture. Law of Cat Landing A cat will always land in the softest place possible; often the mid- section of an unsuspecting, reclining human. Law of Fluid Displacement A cat immersed in milk will displace her own volume, minus the amount of milk consumed. Law of Cat Disinterest A cat’s interest level will vary in inverse proportion to the amount of effort a human expends in trying to interest him. Law of Pill Rejection Any pill given to a cat has the potential energy to reach escape velocity. Law of Cat Composition A cat is composed of Matter + Anti-Matter + It Doesn’t Matter. -
How To Comfort Your Dog While You Are At Work
Posted on April 5th, 2012Leaving your dog at home while you are at work.
Here are some good tips to keep in mind to help ease your dogs’ anxiety while they are alone at home and you are out work.
For lots of us who work there is a painful moment every morning when we leave the house. You’re in the car, ready to back out of the driveway, when you look back at the house and you see your dog staring mournfully at you from the window. He looks at you like you’re abandoning him forever. At that moment you feel enough guilt to sink into the earth and die. You’re leaving your poor dog home alone all day. You’re his best friend and all you can imagine is how sad and lonely he’s going to be without you.
Wherever you live, or however many pets you have, you probably experience some version of this guilt when you leave your home. In actuality, many pets are well-adjusted and cope very well to their owners’ daily absences. However, they all seem to have the sad, guilt-inducing look down pat. And, quite a few pets do seem to become lonely and bored during the day. Some even suffer from separation anxiety .
Your pet can show his loneliness and boredom in a lot of different ways. Pets can chew on your things, claw and scratch at doors, or potty in the house from anxiety. Dogs are very social animals and it’s not usually part of their nature to be alone. Whether they are fearful for themselves when left alone or fearful for you out in the big, bad world, they can become nervous if they are alone with nothing to do.
Fortunately, there are some good ways to combat loneliness and boredom.
Herbal Remedies – There are many herbal remedies that are helpful at soothing and calming dogs who are stressed at being left alone. Various types of herbal remedies work well for dogs with all kinds of anxiety — whether it’s separation anxiety, nervousness from fireworks, or anxiety about traveling.
Training- You can work on desensitizing your dog to your absences. Go through all the motions for leaving the house — take your keys, your purse, your briefcase — whatever. Leave the house for just a couple of minutes and come back. Let your dog see that you don’t always leave the house for long periods of time. Start the car and come back inside. Let your dog get used to seeing you come and go for these brief periods until they start to feel better about seeing you leave. When you leave the house keep things very low-key. Don’t have emotional scenes with your dog or your dog will think there is something to worry about. Likewise, when you come home, keep things quiet and calm. Let your dog know that coming and going are not a big deal. Don’t act like leaving your dog is the end of the world.
Activities – Make sure that your dog has lots of things to do while you’re away at work. There are plenty of great interactive toys on the market these days. There are toys that:
- challenge your dog to find the treat and test his IQ
- toys within toys
- talking toys
- toys that let you record a message for your dog.
- light up and flash laser lights
There’s even an ice lick toy that your dog has to lick to get to the toys and treats inside (probably best as an outside toy). One fun toy has bacon, chicken and peanut butter-scented bubbles!
These great interactive toys can entertain even the sulkiest dogs. Check around and you may find something that will interest your dog. You don’t have to limit yourself to bones and chew toys. Don’t forget the old favorite Kongs — they’re still great for keeping a dog busy trying to get the treat out!
Clean Water – You can also look into self-dispensing water and food bowls. Maybe your dog hates to drink old water? Maybe he would be happier if he had some fresh food to eat while you’re away from home? There are some good self-dispensers on the market that could keep your dog happy while you’re away.
Catch some zzzzzs in style – Don’t forget to provide your dog with a nice bed while you’re away from home. There are plenty available. Your dog may prefer your expensive sofa or even your bed, but it’s nice if he has his own bed available, too.
I know that it sounds like you’re providing your dog with food and provisions for weeks instead of eight hours, but if you can make him happy while you’re at work you’ll both be a lot happier.
