How To Get Rid Of Carpet Odor

Eliminate Carpet and Furniture Odors.

Unfortunately, once in a while our beloved pets have accidents in the house.  It is especially common when we just get a new puppy or the kitty is in his or her older years.

Fortunately, Clear the Air will completely remove any odor, GUARANTEED.

We would like to share with you some tips on removing urine and feces odor from your carpets and furniture.

Absorb pet urine and feces odors from carpet, furniture and leather without chemical or fragrances.

This unique form of Earth Care Products Mineral can be sprinkled on carpet and furniture as needed to eliminate odors. Odors will be completely eliminated. Clear the Air does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the entire area. It works well for old soaked-in urine odors. Clear The Air draws in odors like a powerful magnet. The odors are absorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances.

Even if you have moved into a home where the previous owner had an animal which frequented the carpet, you can still completely eliminate the odor.  Clear the air does not cover up odors; it literally pulls the odors from carpets and furniture leaving the air fresh and clean.

Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth. It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.

DIRECTIONS TO ELIMINATE PET ODORS

1. Remove feces and excess urine.
2. Sprinkle on carpet, rugs, tile, linoleum or hardwood floors.
3. Leave on overnight, then sweep or vacuum. Clear The Air pulls odor from carpet, padding and sub-floor.
4. Sprinkle directly on furniture. Leave overnight, then vacuum or shake off. Will not harm upholstery or leather.
5. Sprinkle on pet bedding or clothes. Leave over night, then shake off.

Typically one application will eliminate all odors; occasionally a second application is necessary. The 14 oz canister covers up to 100 square feet while the 21 oz canister covers up to 150 square feet.

Veterinary Care For Cats Is Important

Did you know there are approximately 10 million more cats than dogs sharing the homes and hearts with kitty aficionados?

Based on these figures we can speculate that cats as pets may be more popular than dogs. But when it comes to routine veterinary care, dogs receive the lion’s share. With the numbers of cats living in households far exceeding those of dogs, according to a survey conducted by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), 58 % of dogs receive these all important exams, as opposed to just 28% of our beloved felines. So what may be some of the reasons for this unseemly discrepancy?

Many cat owners believe that cats don’t need medical care. This misinformation is often based on the myth that cats are more self-sufficient, but more importantly symptoms of disease often go unnoticed since cats tend to hide signs of illness. Dogs may also be considered more “dependent” and needier than felines.

Fortunately for felines, Wednesday, August 22 celebrates National Take your Cat to the Vet Day, a special day that emphasizes the necessity of routine veterinary care for cats. And as the age equivalent of one year in cats is between five and seven years, annual veterinary wellness examinations are an essential part of their care. And as our kitties reach their senior years, semi-annual wellness visits are highly recommended.

Evaluating your cat’s overall health is at the core of a regular wellness examination.  The wellness exam is the ideal opportunity for your veterinarian to become aware of any health problems before they evolve into serious illnesses. Your veterinarian will weigh your kitty, listen to your cat’s heart and lungs, and give your kitty a thorough dental exam. If this is your cats first visit to a new clinic, a complete medical history will be taken by a veterinary technician, or the practitioner.

Be sure to advise the veterinarian of any health issues that you have noticed in your cat, such as  “odd” behavior”, coughing, a decrease or increase of appetite, frequent urination, vomiting, diarrhea or constipation, coughing, weight loss or gain, sluggishness, or excessive and/or loud vocalization.

During the wellness exam your vet may suggest that your kitty receive routine diagnostic tests, which include blood-work, urine analysis and/or x-rays in order to make a complete analysis of your pet’s health.

In order to help maintain the good health of your senior cat, AAHA offers some excellent guidelines for both cat guardians and veterinarians to consider.

And even though your kitty may appear perfectly healthy right now, if it’s been more than a year since your cat received a routine check-up, this is an ideal time to make an appointment to celebrate National Take your Cat to the Vet Day. Several veterinary clinics may be offering special discounts to help make wellness examinations for cats more affordable.

What To Do When Leaving Your Pets With A Sitter

Make sure your dog, cat, or other pet are at ease when you travel.  Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips to ensuring your pet is happy at home with a pet sitter.

When it comes to hiring a professional pet sitter are you a helicopter parent that leaves detailed pooping and walking spreadsheets? Or are you more of the hands-off type who feels perfectly comfortable letting your sitter do his or her own thing?

A well-prepared sitter can keep your pet happy and anxiety-free while you’re away, greatly reducing the number of chewing, scratching, and/or bathroom accidents occurring in your home. The question is: How do you ensure that you’ve given your pet sitter all the necessary tools to keep your animals relaxed and healthy?

Check out these helpful tips:

Spell Out The Animal’s Daily Schedule: Pets are creatures of habit.  Figure out how to maintain their routine while you are away.  If you take your dog for a walk every morning, ask the sitter to do the same.  If your cat likes to have you throw his little toy, make sure to let the sitter know.

Explain What Makes Your Pet Happy: A good professional pet sitter should ask what your pet likes to do, then maybe over-satisfy them in that way. You schedule an in-home consultation with the sitter so they can interview you and meet your dog, cat, bird, etc.

Make Sure Favorite Items Are Handy: When it comes to the actual items to leave for the pet sitter, having things like an old t-shirt, bedding, and their favorite toys to keep the familiarity there for the pet. Ideally, the pet sitter will be visiting your pet at your home, but these items are even more important if you plan to board.

Keep Your Exit Low-Key: A little exercise before you leave can help keep your pet’s mind at ease. They’ll be napping instead of worrying about where you are. Whatever you do, refrain from breaking into the tearful ‘I’m going to miss you so much’ routine.

Keep Your Pets Safe During The Summer Heat

The dog days of summer – what you can do to ensure your pet is safe from the heat.

We all love spending the long, sunny days of summer outdoors with our furry companions, but the ASPCA warns being overeager in hot weather can spell danger.

Take these simple precautions, provided by ASPCA experts, to help prevent your pet from overheating. And if you suspect your pet is suffering from heat stroke, get help from your veterinarian immediately.

• A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must. Make sure your pets get tested for heartworm if they aren’t on year-round preventive medication. Do parasites bug your animal companions? Ask your doctor to recommend a safe flea and tick control program.

• Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water when it’s hot outdoors. Make sure your pets have a shady place to get out of the sun, be careful to not over-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it’s extremely hot.

• Symptoms of  overheating in pets include excessive panting or difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, drooling, mild weakness, stupor or even collapse. They can also include seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomit along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees. Animals with flat faces, like Pugs and Persian cats, are more susceptible to heat stroke since they cannot pant as effectively. These pets, along with the elderly, the overweight, and those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible.

• Never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. “On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time-even with the windows open-which could lead to fatal heat stroke,” says Dr. Louise Murray, Vice President of ASPCA Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. Also, leaving pets unattended in cars in extreme weather is illegal in several states.

• Do not leave pets unsupervised around a pool-not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.

• “During warmer months, the ASPCA sees an increase in injured animals as a result of High-Rise Syndrome, which occurs when pets-mostly cats-fall out of windows or doors and are seriously or fatally injured,” says Dr. Murray. “Pet owners need to know that this is completely preventable if they take simple precautions.” Keep all unscreened windows or doors in your home closed and make sure adjustable screens are tightly secured.

• Feel free to trim longer hair on your dog, but never shave your dog: The layers of dogs’ coats protect them from overheating and sunburn. Brushing cats more often than usual can prevent problems caused by excessive heat. And be sure that any sunscreen or insect repellent product you use on your pets is labeled specifically for use on animals.

• When the temperature is very high, don’t let your dog linger on hot asphalt. Being so close the ground, your pooch’s body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum.

• Commonly used flea and tick products, rodenticides (mouse and rat baits), and lawn and garden insecticides can be harmful to cats and dogs if ingested, so keep them out of reach. When walking your dog, steer clear of areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals. Keep citronella candles, oil products and insect coils out of pets’ reach as well.

• Taking Fido to a backyard barbeque or party? Remember that the food and drink offered to guests may be poisonous to pets. Keep alcoholic beverages away from pets, as they can cause intoxication, depression and comas. Similarly, remember that the snacks enjoyed by your human friends should not be a treat for your pet; any change of diet, even for one meal, may give your dog or cat severe digestive ailments. Avoid raisins, grapes, onions, chocolate and products with the sweetener xylitol.

Stop Your Dog From Urinating In The House

No more dog urine in the house.

House training is a challenging part of dog ownership, and some breeds of dogs are more resistant to house training than others. Dogs urinate in the house due to inadequate house training, anxiety and the lingering smell of urine.

Dogs will also urinate inside if they are forced to wait too long to go outside. You can effectively house train your dog using positive, reward-based methods.

Follow these steps to house train your dog effectively:

Put your dog in a crate when you are not supervising it or are not home. Dogs are unlikely to soil the area in which they sleep unless it’s a true emergency, so keeping your dog in a crate deters it from urinating inside. Every time your dog urinates inside this encourages it to continue doing so, so preventing accidents is the first step in proper house training.

Take your dog outside at least every two hours when you first begin house training. You should also take your dog out when you get home, before you leave, after eating or drinking, after playtime and when your dog wakes up. When your dog urinates outside, praise him lavishly, click the training clicker and give your dog a treat. This teaches your dog to associate going outside with receiving a reward and will increase the frequency with which the dog goes outside.

Take your dog outside immediately if he has an accident. This helps your dog develop an association between urinating and being outside, and will discourage future accidents.

Remove the scent of urine from any places where your dog has urinated by using Clear the Air Odor Eliminator for Carpet/Furniture. Dogs are driven by scent and are far more likely to urinate in areas that smell like urine.

You can order our products online at www.cleartheair.com.  We currently have a promotion for the month of August: Buy 2 Get 2 Free of our Carpet/Furniture Odor Eliminator.  Simply add 4 canisters to your shopping cart, enter “carpetodor” into the redemption code and the price of two canisters is automatically taken away from your total.

Dogs Can Get Sunburned Too

Did you know your dog is susceptible to getting sunburned?

Just like humans, dogs can get sunburned. This is especially true of light coated short hair dogs and breeds like Shar Peis, white Pit Bulls, and Chinese Crested Hairless dogs.

All dogs, even ones with thick coats, can get sunburn too. The areas to be mindful of are the ears, nose, and around the eyes, where the coat is often thinner. These areas are usually lighter in pigment and are frequently exposed to direct sunlight.

When using sunblock on dogs, it is usually a good idea to use a child’s sunscreen which contains avobenzone, a UVA blocker, and octisalate, a UVB blocker.  It is usually a good idea to avoid using sunscreens containing zinc oxide which can be harmful if ingested.  In addition to using sunblock, you can pick up clothes for dogs with UV protection. Another popular item that protects a dog’s face is a sun visor. Dogs can get sunburned even in the winter if the sun is strong.

Long walks and fun times at the dog park are encouraged, but beware of high temperatures.  In general, once it gets above 85 degrees, dog owners should use caution when exercising their dog outdoors.  For most dogs, moderate activity for 30 minutes is safe. If the temps exceed 95 degrees, it’s probably best for both of you to skip the outdoor workout until it cools down.

During the summer months, try to walk or jog in the early morning or evenings or seek shady trails. If your dog begins to have rapid or labored breathing, begins to resist walking, or acts depressed, your dog may be overheating. In these cases, stop, rest, and rehydrate. This doesn’t mean you should stop exercising just because your dog is panting; you need to closely watch your pet to determine if the panting is excessive or abnormal. If in doubt, take a break and cool down.

Always be sure to take water with you when you exercise with your dog in warm weather. There are many styles of portable dog bowls that are convenient to carry.

In any type of circumstance, use caution when exercising your dog and make sure he/she is in good health.

Bringing A New Cat Home?

Are you thinking of getting a new cat or kitten?

There are important tips to keep in mind when looking into bringing a new cat home whether you already have dogs and/or cats or are new to the pet world.

A new home can be stressful for a cat and in order to ensure you and your new cat are completely happy with each other, follow these helpful tips.

Prepare a room in your house for the new arrival – Your new kitten or cat is going to need some time to adjust to his new environment—the new sights, sounds, and smells; the new ecosystem of germs; and the new people—so set the room up for an extended stay. You’ll need to provide all the basic kitty comforts—water bowl, comfortable bed, and litter box. If you are using a spare bedroom or office for your kitty’s temporary quarters, make sure you “kitty-proof” it. Just like with small children, put away anything valuable or breakable. Get down on the floor and look around from a “cat’s eye view.” Cover any bed, sofa, or upholstered chair with a waterproof pad or sheet. Remember, cats are territorial and may, when feeling insecure, mark their territory with urine or feces. If another animal has been in the room and had a little “accident” that you never even noticed, the new kitten or cat will find it and “refresh” it!

Clean and prepare a pet carrier for transporting your new cat home – Wash a pet carrier with a solution of 1:32 bleach and water solution (1 ounce [30 ml] bleach to 1 gallon [4 l] of warm water) and rinse thoroughly. Outfit it with something you’ve worn, such as a T-shirt, so the new kitty can start getting used to your scent on the way home. Once you get the kitty home, you might want to leave the carrier in the room for him as an extra haven of security.

When driving home, make sure the carrier is secured with a seat belt – Also, driving in a car is usually an intense experience for kittens and cats, so keep the music from your radio or CD player soft and soothing; light classical is a good choice, especially Mozart.

Give your new kitty an adequate adjustment / quarantine period – Quarantine your new kitten or cat for a minimum of 14 days and preferably 21. It will allow for mental, emotional, and immune system adaptation. It’s important to be in this room frequently to love, feed, and bond with your new kitten or cat. He will become more comfortable and, of extreme importance, get used to his new litter box. You can start to introduce your new kitty slowly to the rest of your home. Expect the introduction period to take weeks, not days. If you get too excited and/or impatient and rush this time, you risk social failure as well as litter box mistakes.

If you have other pets, make sure you give them plenty of affection so they don’t feel neglected, and make the introduction gradually – All the animals that live with you will be aware of each other by smell first. Feed resident cats and the new cat on opposite sides of the (closed) door to the new cat’s room; feed the dog separately due to dogs’ natural guarding behaviors surrounding food. (It is never safe to feed dogs and cats together.) Paws may start to reach under the door. Moderate hissing or growling is normal. Gradually crack the door open so the pets can see each other without being able to fight. Occasionally bring some of your resident pets’ bedding into the new cat’s room, so that the newcomer can become acquainted with the scent. The new cat’s bedding can also be introduced to the current residents. Do occasional “territory swaps” by putting the new cat in another part of the house and the resident cats in the new cat’s room. Sometimes they become fast friends; sometimes they will annoy but tolerate each other; sometimes the sounds of hissing and yowling will make you wonder if bringing home another cat was the right thing—but don’t worry, with cat introductions, some personalities blend and others don’t, but in nearly all cases, they can be taught to tolerate each other.

Note: If you’re introducing a cat to one or more dogs, keep all dogs leashed at all times to allow the new cat to choose how closely to interact. Never leave any dog and cat together unsupervised (no matter how well they know each other) unless the cat has a good escape route.

Limit new ” siblings’ ” time together if it’s not going well initially – They will decide among them who is going to be “top cat!” Helping the cats to socialize through play therapy can also be helpful.

Keep it dark – Let your new cat sleep in a dark room with no light at all. This will help your cat give up any tendency toward nocturnal activities and adjust to your schedule.

Tick Removal For Your Pets

Removing ticks from your pets – what you need to know!

Ewe, it is flea and tick season!  Keep fleas and ticks away with our helpful tips.

Need help on removing those pesky ticks your dog and cat pick up from outside?  Check out ASPCA’s article:

So, you’ve found a tick on your pet—how do you deal with it? While it’s important to get these little suckers off quickly, ASPCA veterinarians advise that you stay calm and don’t rush it. Moving too fast when removing a tick could potentially create more problems, both for your pet and for you.

While the following instructions employ tweezers, be aware that there are some very good products on the market designed specifically for safe tick removal. If you live in a tick-heavy area or are taking your pets to a place where they are likely to get ticks, it’s a good idea to buy one of these tools and have it on hand. They generally work better than tweezers at getting out the whole tick, and are relatively inexpensive.

Step-by-Step Tick Removal Instructions

Step 1—Prepare its Final Resting Place – Throwing a tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, and it’s actually best to hold on to it for awhile for veterinary testing in case your pet falls ill from the bite. Be ready with somewhere to put the tick after you’ve removed it—the best option is a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol.

Step 2—Don’t Bare-Hand It – Put on latex or rubber gloves so you’ll never have direct contact with the tick or your pet’s bite area. Ticks can carry infective agents that may enter your bloodstream through breaks in your skin or through mucous membranes (if you touch your eyes, nostrils or mouth).

Step 3—Grab a Partner – You don’t want your pet squirming away before you’re finished, so if possible, have a helper on hand to distract, soothe or hold her still.

Step 4—The Removal – Treat the bite area with rubbing alcohol and, using a pair of tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the animal’s skin as possible. Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure. Place the tick in your jar.

• Do not twist or jerk the tick! This may leave the mouth-parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate infective fluids.
• Do not squeeze or crush the body of the tick, because its fluids (saliva and gut contents) may contain infective organisms.

Step 5—All that Remains – Sometimes, in spite of doing everything right, a tick’s mouth-parts will get left behind in your pet’s skin. If the area doesn’t appear red or inflamed, the best thing to do is to disinfect it and not to try to take the mouth-parts out. A warm compress to the area might help the body expel them, but do not go at it with tweezers.

Step 6—Clean Up – Thoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water (even though you were wearing gloves). Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or by carefully running them over a flame.

Step 7—Keep Watch – Over the next few weeks, closely monitor the bite area for any signs of localized infection. If the area is already red and inflamed, or becomes so later, please bring your pet—and your jarred tick—to your veterinarian for evaluation.

From: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/how-to-remove-a-tick-from-your-pet.aspx

Dog Care Tips

If you are new to dog ownership or have had dogs all your life, there are some crucial tips which every dog owner needs to be aware of and sometimes reminded of.

While dogs are fun and loyal creatures, they can also be complex. It takes a fair amount of understanding to care for dogs—one that requires a lot more effort than just feeding them every day.  Check out our helpful dog care tips:

• Stay away from unhealthy additives: During your search, you’ll find lots of pet products that have been manufactured out of low quality ingredients and enhanced with artificial sweeteners. Avoid such option. Before you buy a product, go through the nutritional label to find out exactly what it contains.  Search for foods that are manufactured from healthy protein sources such as chicken or beef. Avoid foods that contain high percentages of bone meal.

• Don’t ignore fleas or ticks: Combined, fleas and ticks form a larger percentage of most canine health problems. Dogs that play outdoors are highly susceptible to these. Pay attention to your dog. If left untreated, ticks can go on to cause severe conditions such as anemia. Your dog may also spread the fleas and ticks to other members of the home.

• Give your dog somewhere cool to relax: Don’t just assign any resting place for your dog. Pick a spot in your home where your dog will get enough protection from the heat. Dogs are more prone to heat strokes than humans. Ensure that your dog gets enough water during the day, especially during the warmer months. Design a regular feeding schedule. This will help when the dog is being housebroken.

• Stock up on pet supplies and equipment: For the best living experience, take the time to get everything that you might need. For instance, it’s always advisable that you get your dog a collar. It doesn’t have to be very stylish but it should at least be comfortable. You can also get feeding bowls and pet wash supplies to make grooming easier.

It’s a “ruff” life…Part 2 of Why your dog barks

Wonder why your dog barks for certain reasons?

Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on learning about the behavior of your dog and why he barks.  Enjoy part 2 of our blog – taken from The San Diego Humane Society.

Request Barking

When they want something, dogs will experiment with various behaviors to see if any of them work. They quickly figure out that barking works with their owners. If you don’t like barking, stop rewarding it with attention, door-opening services, releasing from crates etc. Period. No buts.

Rather than the dog telling you when to take him out, take him out at regular intervals, making sure none of them are preceded by barking. Don’t let a barking dog out of a crate until he’s quiet. Ignore dogs who bark at you. Keep in mind that if you have been rewarding it for a while, the barking will get worse before it goes into extinction. You’re changing the rules and the dog will be frustrated at first. Whatever you do, don’t crack and reward the WORSE version of the barking!

Above all, start noticing the dog when he’s quiet. Teach him that there are payoffs for lying quietly, chewing on a chew-toy and refraining from barking.

Barking When Alone

This is a common form of request barking: the dog is requesting that you come back. There is also often some anxiety involved. When you get a new dog or puppy, set a good precedent right away. Don’t smother him with your constant presence and attention. Come and go a lot and never go to him when he’s vocalizing. Wait until he’s quiet for at least 30 seconds so you don’t risk rewarding the noise making. If your dog already has a habit, you must start a multi-pronged assault:

1) When you’re at home, don’t let him shadow you around: lock him in various rooms away from you to practice “semi-absences.” Reprimand or ignore any barking (ignoring is actually a more powerful tool). If you choose to reprimand it, burst through the door, scold the dog and then immediately disappear again, closing the door behind you. Remember that he’s barking to get you back: with some dogs, a reprimand is better than nothing so you may be rewarding him…

2) Practice loads of brief absences every day. Go out and come back in after 2 or 3 seconds over and over to get the dog desensitized to your departures. Do it in a matter of fact way, more or less ignoring the dog whatever he does. Then do outings of 10 seconds, 30, a minute, 10 minutes etc. Mix it up. Dogs who are anxious need to learn that your departure doesn’t usually mean a traumatically long period of isolation. Keep all your departures and arrival greetings low key. Never enter when the dog is barking. Wait for a lull of at least 30 seconds.

3) Dogs are a highly social species. They don’t cope well with prolonged isolation. Consider a second dog, daycare or dog-walker at lunchtime if you work all day.

4) Increase physical and mental stimulation. In a natural environment, a lot of your dog’s energy would be spent acquiring his food. He would have to find prey, run it down, hang onto and kill it and then rip it apart to eat it. He’d have to attempt several finds and run-downs before he successfully made a kill. That’s work! Tire him out more before long absences. Walks don’t cut it as exercise for dogs. Most dogs like getting out and checking out the environment but it’s not exercise. Exercise means exertion. Start working your dog out with high-intensity games like ball-fetch, Frisbee, tug-of-war, hide & seek, free-play with other dogs etc.

Make him work to acquire his food. Hide it around the house, scatter it in the grass in the backyard, make him extract it from the hollow inside of a bone or Kong toy (which you also hide), make him earn it piece by piece for obedience exercises or tricks, make him solve problems. Your imagination is the limit. Make your absences predict that his meal is hidden around the house so that he has to get busy when you leave if he wants to eat. Dogs are programmed to work for their food. It’s no wonder there are so many problems related to under stimulation.

5) Get him more focused on toys. When you play with him, incorporate toys. Hold chewies for him. Teach him to find a toy that you’ve hidden in the room and then celebrate his find with tug of war or fetch. Teach him his toys by name. Ask him to bring you one when you come home. Don’t greet him until he’s brought it.

Then have a vigorous game of fetch. Leave him stuffed chew toys during absences: fill hollow bones or Kongs with cheese, peanut butter, cookies or combos.

If your dog is anxious to the point of panic attacks, he has separation anxiety and need formal desensitization and/or medication. Contact a competent trainer.

Spooky Barking

In this case, it is important to get at the underlying under socialization. Socialize puppies extensively to as wide a variety of people and dogs as possible. You cannot overdo it. Expose them to plenty of places, experiences, sights & sounds and make it all fun with praise, games & treats. Find and attend a good puppy class.

If you missed the boat socializing your puppy, you’ll have to do remedial work with your adolescent or adult.

Whatever it is that your dog is spooky about must now become associated with lunch. This is how under socialized dogs work for their food. If he doesn’t like strangers, meals need to fed bit by bit around strangers until he improves. It takes a while to re-socialize adults so stick with it.

Boredom Barking

If you don’t have time for a dog, don’t get a dog. Dogs are not space-intensive, they are time-intensive. If you have an outside dog, train him to be an inside dog. There is no quick fix here: you must meet your dog’s basic needs for stimulation, exercise and companionship.