Books don’t always sell in direct relationship to how much their authors love them. Sometimes that’s for reasons outside of our control (such as the pet care book that came out just before Sept. 11, 2001), but there’s often no reason for it at all.
Two of our books, “bowWOW!: Curiously Compelling Facts, True Tales, and Trivia Even Your Dog Won’t Know” and its feline companion, “meowWOW!” (both from HCI, $14.95, 224 pages), remain our little, almost-forgotten favorites: bright, fun and interesting, with illustrations by Molly Pearce so wonderful that we have them framed in our offices. We loved researching and writing these two books. Some fun facts we found:
• Dogs have been taxed for centuries, but the idea of a tag to signify that a dog was “licensed” seems to date to the late 19th century, when Cincinnati started issuing tags on an annual basis, and other cities and states soon followed suit. Although wooden tags for soldiers were used in the U.S. Civil War to help identify the injured and the dead, it wasn’t until World War I that American soldiers got metal tags as standard issue. The resemblance between the tags of soldiers and of dogs (along with a good dollop of droll military humor) soon had the men calling them “dog tags” – a term that sticks to this day.
• The cat has one up on the lion: Cats purr, but lions cannot. (On the flip side: Lions roar, which cats can’t.) No big cat can get his motor running the way our household kitties can, purring constantly as effortlessly as breathing, both in and out. Tigers can rumble a tiger-sized purr-like sound, but on the exhale only.
• All dogs have pink tongues, with two notable exceptions: the Chow Chow and the Chinese Shar-Pei, both breeds with tongues variously described as “purple,” “black” or “blue-black.” Black spots on tongues are common in many dogs, and are not necessarily an indication that there’s a Chow Chow or Shar-Pei in the gene pool, however.
• Most cats have five toes on their front paws, but only four of them hit the ground. The fifth toe is found on the inside of the front paw. This “dewclaw” is the feline equivalent of our thumb, and it’s used for grasping prey and climbing trees. Any number of toes over the norm (usually an extra one or two, but occasionally as many as three or four) makes a cat polydactyl, which means “many fingers.” Polydactylism is a dominant genetic trait, which means just one polydactyl parent is enough to make a litter of polydactyl kittens.
• Helen Keller, the blind and deaf woman whose triumph over her disabilities made her an international sensation, was the first American to own an Akita dog.
• Cats can hear nearly three times more frequencies than humans can. For you technical types, a cat’s hearing stops at 80 kilohertz, a dog’s at 45 kHz, and a human’s at a pathetic 20 kHz. Because cats can rotate their ears and focus each ear independently, they also can hear well from all directions. A cat can rotate its outer ear to locate a sound – such as the sound of a mouse’s footsteps trying to sneak by – 10 times faster than a dog.
• The phrase “Beware of dog” is so old that its Latin equivalent – cave canem – has been found on signs in Roman ruins. The word “watchdog” isn’t quite as old, but it has been around a long, long time. The first mention of it? By Shakespeare, in “The Tempest.”
• Cats’ heads come in three basic shapes: round, such as on the fluffy Persians; triangular, such as on the sleek, show-bred Siamese and other so-called “Oriental” breeds; and rec-tangular, such as on the burly Maine Coon. Most random-bred cats tend more toward the triangular head, albeit a less extreme version than on the show-quality Siamese.
• One final one, just for summer: The “dog days” of summer have nothing to do with dogs and everything to do with the brightest star in the night sky: Sirius, the constellation also known as the “dog star” that’s highly visible during some of the hottest weeks of the year.
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Bringing A New Cat Home?
Posted on August 3rd, 2012Are you thinking of getting a new cat or kitten?
There are important tips to keep in mind when looking into bringing a new cat home whether you already have dogs and/or cats or are new to the pet world.
A new home can be stressful for a cat and in order to ensure you and your new cat are completely happy with each other, follow these helpful tips.
Prepare a room in your house for the new arrival – Your new kitten or cat is going to need some time to adjust to his new environment—the new sights, sounds, and smells; the new ecosystem of germs; and the new people—so set the room up for an extended stay. You’ll need to provide all the basic kitty comforts—water bowl, comfortable bed, and litter box. If you are using a spare bedroom or office for your kitty’s temporary quarters, make sure you “kitty-proof” it. Just like with small children, put away anything valuable or breakable. Get down on the floor and look around from a “cat’s eye view.” Cover any bed, sofa, or upholstered chair with a waterproof pad or sheet. Remember, cats are territorial and may, when feeling insecure, mark their territory with urine or feces. If another animal has been in the room and had a little “accident” that you never even noticed, the new kitten or cat will find it and “refresh” it!
Clean and prepare a pet carrier for transporting your new cat home – Wash a pet carrier with a solution of 1:32 bleach and water solution (1 ounce [30 ml] bleach to 1 gallon [4 l] of warm water) and rinse thoroughly. Outfit it with something you’ve worn, such as a T-shirt, so the new kitty can start getting used to your scent on the way home. Once you get the kitty home, you might want to leave the carrier in the room for him as an extra haven of security.
When driving home, make sure the carrier is secured with a seat belt – Also, driving in a car is usually an intense experience for kittens and cats, so keep the music from your radio or CD player soft and soothing; light classical is a good choice, especially Mozart.
Give your new kitty an adequate adjustment / quarantine period – Quarantine your new kitten or cat for a minimum of 14 days and preferably 21. It will allow for mental, emotional, and immune system adaptation. It’s important to be in this room frequently to love, feed, and bond with your new kitten or cat. He will become more comfortable and, of extreme importance, get used to his new litter box. You can start to introduce your new kitty slowly to the rest of your home. Expect the introduction period to take weeks, not days. If you get too excited and/or impatient and rush this time, you risk social failure as well as litter box mistakes.
If you have other pets, make sure you give them plenty of affection so they don’t feel neglected, and make the introduction gradually – All the animals that live with you will be aware of each other by smell first. Feed resident cats and the new cat on opposite sides of the (closed) door to the new cat’s room; feed the dog separately due to dogs’ natural guarding behaviors surrounding food. (It is never safe to feed dogs and cats together.) Paws may start to reach under the door. Moderate hissing or growling is normal. Gradually crack the door open so the pets can see each other without being able to fight. Occasionally bring some of your resident pets’ bedding into the new cat’s room, so that the newcomer can become acquainted with the scent. The new cat’s bedding can also be introduced to the current residents. Do occasional “territory swaps” by putting the new cat in another part of the house and the resident cats in the new cat’s room. Sometimes they become fast friends; sometimes they will annoy but tolerate each other; sometimes the sounds of hissing and yowling will make you wonder if bringing home another cat was the right thing—but don’t worry, with cat introductions, some personalities blend and others don’t, but in nearly all cases, they can be taught to tolerate each other.
Note: If you’re introducing a cat to one or more dogs, keep all dogs leashed at all times to allow the new cat to choose how closely to interact. Never leave any dog and cat together unsupervised (no matter how well they know each other) unless the cat has a good escape route.
Limit new ” siblings’ ” time together if it’s not going well initially – They will decide among them who is going to be “top cat!” Helping the cats to socialize through play therapy can also be helpful.
Keep it dark – Let your new cat sleep in a dark room with no light at all. This will help your cat give up any tendency toward nocturnal activities and adjust to your schedule.
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Clear the Air Will Help Sell or Rent Your House Faster
Posted on August 2nd, 2012Trying to Sell or Rent?
Property management companies and Real Estate Brokers and Agents deal with odor issues on a routine basis. Cigarette, pet, musty/mildew, dead rodent, and cooking odors are most common and make a home harder to sell or rent.
Real Estate is often slow selling/renting or discounted due to odor issues. It has been reported that approximately 5-10% of all listing have odor issues that may impact the sale. Clear The Air Odor Eliminators are an easy, inexpensive way to solve the problem and get your property sold or rented.
Clear The Air Odor Eliminators are an easy, inexpensive way to solve the problem and get your property sold or rented. Clear the Air does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the carpet pad, and sub-floor. Clear The Air draws in odors like a powerful magnet. The odors are adsorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances. Clear The Air does not cover up odors; it literally “clears the air” leaving the air fresh and clean. Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth. It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.
Check out how to eliminate odors in a house:
- Hang 1 or 2 bags in each room that has odor. Some air circulation is best. One bag covers approximately 100 square feet. Bags will last approximately 3 months; we suggest leaving them up until house is sold/rented.
- If you have pet urine odors in the carpet (including cat urine) sprinkle Clear The Air Odor Eliminator for Cat Urine on carpet, tile, concrete, furniture, or any other surface. Leave down overnight; sweep or vacuum up and odor will be completely eliminated. One canister covers approximately 100 square feet.
- If you have odors outside on lawn or shrubs sprinkle Clear The Air Odor Eliminator for Lawns down. Leave down indefinitely, Clear The Air is an excellent nitrogen soil amendment. One canister covers approximately 100 square feet.
- If you have a dead rodent odor please click How to Eliminate Dead Rodent Odors PDF
- Many agents keep a case of bags in their trunk.
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Tick Removal For Your Pets
Posted on July 30th, 2012Removing ticks from your pets – what you need to know!
Ewe, it is flea and tick season! Keep fleas and ticks away with our helpful tips.
Need help on removing those pesky ticks your dog and cat pick up from outside? Check out ASPCA’s article:
So, you’ve found a tick on your pet—how do you deal with it? While it’s important to get these little suckers off quickly, ASPCA veterinarians advise that you stay calm and don’t rush it. Moving too fast when removing a tick could potentially create more problems, both for your pet and for you.
While the following instructions employ tweezers, be aware that there are some very good products on the market designed specifically for safe tick removal. If you live in a tick-heavy area or are taking your pets to a place where they are likely to get ticks, it’s a good idea to buy one of these tools and have it on hand. They generally work better than tweezers at getting out the whole tick, and are relatively inexpensive.
Step-by-Step Tick Removal Instructions
Step 1—Prepare its Final Resting Place – Throwing a tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, and it’s actually best to hold on to it for awhile for veterinary testing in case your pet falls ill from the bite. Be ready with somewhere to put the tick after you’ve removed it—the best option is a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol.
Step 2—Don’t Bare-Hand It – Put on latex or rubber gloves so you’ll never have direct contact with the tick or your pet’s bite area. Ticks can carry infective agents that may enter your bloodstream through breaks in your skin or through mucous membranes (if you touch your eyes, nostrils or mouth).
Step 3—Grab a Partner – You don’t want your pet squirming away before you’re finished, so if possible, have a helper on hand to distract, soothe or hold her still.
Step 4—The Removal – Treat the bite area with rubbing alcohol and, using a pair of tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the animal’s skin as possible. Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure. Place the tick in your jar.
- Do not twist or jerk the tick! This may leave the mouth-parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate infective fluids.
- Do not squeeze or crush the body of the tick, because its fluids (saliva and gut contents) may contain infective organisms.
Step 5—All that Remains – Sometimes, in spite of doing everything right, a tick’s mouth-parts will get left behind in your pet’s skin. If the area doesn’t appear red or inflamed, the best thing to do is to disinfect it and not to try to take the mouth-parts out. A warm compress to the area might help the body expel them, but do not go at it with tweezers.
Step 6—Clean Up – Thoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water (even though you were wearing gloves). Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or by carefully running them over a flame.
Step 7—Keep Watch – Over the next few weeks, closely monitor the bite area for any signs of localized infection. If the area is already red and inflamed, or becomes so later, please bring your pet—and your jarred tick—to your veterinarian for evaluation.
From: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/how-to-remove-a-tick-from-your-pet.aspx
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Dog Care Tips
Posted on July 26th, 2012If you are new to dog ownership or have had dogs all your life, there are some crucial tips which every dog owner needs to be aware of and sometimes reminded of.
While dogs are fun and loyal creatures, they can also be complex. It takes a fair amount of understanding to care for dogs—one that requires a lot more effort than just feeding them every day. Check out our helpful dog care tips:
- Stay away from unhealthy additives: During your search, you’ll find lots of pet products that have been manufactured out of low quality ingredients and enhanced with artificial sweeteners. Avoid such option. Before you buy a product, go through the nutritional label to find out exactly what it contains. Search for foods that are manufactured from healthy protein sources such as chicken or beef. Avoid foods that contain high percentages of bone meal.
- Don’t ignore fleas or ticks: Combined, fleas and ticks form a larger percentage of most canine health problems. Dogs that play outdoors are highly susceptible to these. Pay attention to your dog. If left untreated, ticks can go on to cause severe conditions such as anemia. Your dog may also spread the fleas and ticks to other members of the home.
- Give your dog somewhere cool to relax: Don’t just assign any resting place for your dog. Pick a spot in your home where your dog will get enough protection from the heat. Dogs are more prone to heat strokes than humans. Ensure that your dog gets enough water during the day, especially during the warmer months. Design a regular feeding schedule. This will help when the dog is being housebroken.
- Stock up on pet supplies and equipment: For the best living experience, take the time to get everything that you might need. For instance, it’s always advisable that you get your dog a collar. It doesn’t have to be very stylish but it should at least be comfortable. You can also get feeding bowls and pet wash supplies to make grooming easier.
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It’s a “ruff” life…Part 2 of Why your dog barks
Posted on July 23rd, 2012Wonder why your dog barks for certain reasons?
Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on learning about the behavior of your dog and why he barks. Enjoy part 2 of our blog – taken from The San Diego Humane Society.
Request Barking
When they want something, dogs will experiment with various behaviors to see if any of them work. They quickly figure out that barking works with their owners. If you don’t like barking, stop rewarding it with attention, door-opening services, releasing from crates etc. Period. No buts.
Rather than the dog telling you when to take him out, take him out at regular intervals, making sure none of them are preceded by barking. Don’t let a barking dog out of a crate until he’s quiet. Ignore dogs who bark at you. Keep in mind that if you have been rewarding it for a while, the barking will get worse before it goes into extinction. You’re changing the rules and the dog will be frustrated at first. Whatever you do, don’t crack and reward the WORSE version of the barking!
Above all, start noticing the dog when he’s quiet. Teach him that there are payoffs for lying quietly, chewing on a chew-toy and refraining from barking.
Barking When Alone
This is a common form of request barking: the dog is requesting that you come back. There is also often some anxiety involved. When you get a new dog or puppy, set a good precedent right away. Don’t smother him with your constant presence and attention. Come and go a lot and never go to him when he’s vocalizing. Wait until he’s quiet for at least 30 seconds so you don’t risk rewarding the noise making. If your dog already has a habit, you must start a multi-pronged assault:
1) When you’re at home, don’t let him shadow you around: lock him in various rooms away from you to practice “semi-absences.” Reprimand or ignore any barking (ignoring is actually a more powerful tool). If you choose to reprimand it, burst through the door, scold the dog and then immediately disappear again, closing the door behind you. Remember that he’s barking to get you back: with some dogs, a reprimand is better than nothing so you may be rewarding him…
2) Practice loads of brief absences every day. Go out and come back in after 2 or 3 seconds over and over to get the dog desensitized to your departures. Do it in a matter of fact way, more or less ignoring the dog whatever he does. Then do outings of 10 seconds, 30, a minute, 10 minutes etc. Mix it up. Dogs who are anxious need to learn that your departure doesn’t usually mean a traumatically long period of isolation. Keep all your departures and arrival greetings low key. Never enter when the dog is barking. Wait for a lull of at least 30 seconds.
3) Dogs are a highly social species. They don’t cope well with prolonged isolation. Consider a second dog, daycare or dog-walker at lunchtime if you work all day.
4) Increase physical and mental stimulation. In a natural environment, a lot of your dog’s energy would be spent acquiring his food. He would have to find prey, run it down, hang onto and kill it and then rip it apart to eat it. He’d have to attempt several finds and run-downs before he successfully made a kill. That’s work! Tire him out more before long absences. Walks don’t cut it as exercise for dogs. Most dogs like getting out and checking out the environment but it’s not exercise. Exercise means exertion. Start working your dog out with high-intensity games like ball-fetch, Frisbee, tug-of-war, hide & seek, free-play with other dogs etc.
Make him work to acquire his food. Hide it around the house, scatter it in the grass in the backyard, make him extract it from the hollow inside of a bone or Kong toy (which you also hide), make him earn it piece by piece for obedience exercises or tricks, make him solve problems. Your imagination is the limit. Make your absences predict that his meal is hidden around the house so that he has to get busy when you leave if he wants to eat. Dogs are programmed to work for their food. It’s no wonder there are so many problems related to under stimulation.
5) Get him more focused on toys. When you play with him, incorporate toys. Hold chewies for him. Teach him to find a toy that you’ve hidden in the room and then celebrate his find with tug of war or fetch. Teach him his toys by name. Ask him to bring you one when you come home. Don’t greet him until he’s brought it.
Then have a vigorous game of fetch. Leave him stuffed chew toys during absences: fill hollow bones or Kongs with cheese, peanut butter, cookies or combos.
If your dog is anxious to the point of panic attacks, he has separation anxiety and need formal desensitization and/or medication. Contact a competent trainer.
Spooky Barking
In this case, it is important to get at the underlying under socialization. Socialize puppies extensively to as wide a variety of people and dogs as possible. You cannot overdo it. Expose them to plenty of places, experiences, sights & sounds and make it all fun with praise, games & treats. Find and attend a good puppy class.
If you missed the boat socializing your puppy, you’ll have to do remedial work with your adolescent or adult.
Whatever it is that your dog is spooky about must now become associated with lunch. This is how under socialized dogs work for their food. If he doesn’t like strangers, meals need to fed bit by bit around strangers until he improves. It takes a while to re-socialize adults so stick with it.
Boredom Barking
If you don’t have time for a dog, don’t get a dog. Dogs are not space-intensive, they are time-intensive. If you have an outside dog, train him to be an inside dog. There is no quick fix here: you must meet your dog’s basic needs for stimulation, exercise and companionship.
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Why Your Dog Barks – Part 1
Posted on July 23rd, 2012If you have a dog, most likely there have been times he or she barks excessively for a reason you are not sure of.
Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on learning about the behavior of your dog and why he barks. This will be a two part blog touching on various reasons your dog barks.
This article was taken from the San Diego Humane Society.
Dogs bark for a variety of reasons:
1) Watchdog Barking serves the dual purpose of alerting pack members that there is an intruder and warning the intruder that they have been noticed.
2) Request Barking is the dog’s way of communicating to the owner that he would like something NOW.
Typical requests are “open the door NOW,” “pay attention to me NOW,” “let me out of here NOW,” “I wanna see that dog NOW” etc.
3) Spooky Barking occurs when the dog is uncomfortable about something in the environment and barks to say “I’m dangerous! Don’t come any closer!”
4) Boredom Barking can result when the dog’s daily needs for exercise and social stimulation are not met. The dog has gone essentially mad from boredom.
Controlling Excessive Barking:
Watchdog Barking
The standby technique is to teach the dog a competing response – such as fetching a certain toy or doing a down-stay on a mat (which cuts barking in many dogs) for tasty food rewards. Practice out of doorbell or “intruder” contexts first and then incorporate the game or command into real-life situations. The dog will need some coaching and prompting the first few times in the real-life situation so prepare to budget some time for that. Even better, set it up with a cohort to play “visitor,” so you can focus on the dog rather than being forced to attend to the person at the door. When the dog is more advanced, you can also incorporate penalties. If he gets it right, he is rewarded as usual. If he barks, he goes into the penalty box – a back room or crate that is far from the action.
Another technique – high effort but great result – is to teach the dog the meaning of the words “bark” and “quiet” (or any word you want to use as an “off” switch). First, you have to teach the dog to bark and quiet on command as a trick. To elicit the barking so that you can practice, you must use something you know makes the dog bark, like the doorbell or a weird noise outside (you may need a helper). Arrange the following sequence:
1) your command “bark!”
2) the doorbell or other prom
3) barking from the dog
4) praise from you: “good bark!”
5) your command “quiet”
6) showing him the treat
7) his (eventual) distraction from barking by the treat
8) 3-5 seconds of quiet during which you praise “gooo-oood quiet”
9) giving him the treat after 3-5 seconds of perfect quiet
10) repeat, gradually lengthening the duration of the “quiet” up to a minute
Do it over and over until the dog knows the game. He knows the game when he barks on the command and doesn’t need the doorbell anymore, and he quiets on the first quiet command without having to be shown the treat (you still give him one from your pocket, you just don’t show it anymore). If ever he interrupts a quiet with even one bark, say “oh! too bad” and start counting the quiet time from the beginning again. Barking during the quiet time will cost him his treat.
You must be able to yo-yo the dog back and forth reliably between bark and quiet before you try out your “quiet” command in real situations. The most common mistake is trying to use the quiet command before it’s well-enough conditioned in training sessions. Think of quiet on command as a muscle you’re making stronger.
When you can turn barking on and off anytime, anyplace as a trick, you may now start commanding quiet after a few barks when your dog barks on his own in real-life situations. The first few times the dog will respond poorly to the command. Don’t give up. Have really good treats handy. Go back to showing him the treat up front the first few times. Practice makes perfect.
If your dog “goes off” for the smallest sounds and changes in the environment, it would help the cause to get him better habituated. Take him out more, invite people and dogs over to socialize, expose him to a wider range of sights and sounds.
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Tick Removal for your Pets
Posted on July 20th, 2012Removing ticks from your pets.
Ewe, it is flea and tick season! Need help on removing those pesky ticks your dog and cat pick up from outside? Check out ASPCA’s article:
So, you’ve found a tick on your pet—how do you deal with it? While it’s important to get these little suckers off quickly, ASPCA veterinarians advise that you stay calm and don’t rush it. Moving too fast when removing a tick could potentially create more problems, both for your pet and for you.
While the following instructions employ tweezers, be aware that there are some very good products on the market designed specifically for safe tick removal. If you live in a tick-heavy area or are taking your pets to a place where they are likely to get ticks, it’s a good idea to buy one of these tools and have it on hand. They generally work better than tweezers at getting out the whole tick, and are relatively inexpensive.
Step-by-Step Tick Removal Instructions
Step 1—Prepare its Final Resting Place – Throwing a tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, and it’s actually best to hold on to it for awhile for veterinary testing in case your pet falls ill from the bite. Be ready with somewhere to put the tick after you’ve removed it—the best option is a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol.
Step 2—Don’t Bare-Hand It – Put on latex or rubber gloves so you’ll never have direct contact with the tick or your pet’s bite area. Ticks can carry infective agents that may enter your bloodstream through breaks in your skin or through mucous membranes (if you touch your eyes, nostrils or mouth).
Step 3—Grab a Partner – You don’t want your pet squirming away before you’re finished, so if possible, have a helper on hand to distract, soothe or hold her still.
Step 4—The Removal – Treat the bite area with rubbing alcohol and, using a pair of tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the animal’s skin as possible. Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure. Place the tick in your jar.
- Do not twist or jerk the tick! This may leave the mouth-parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate infective fluids.
- Do not squeeze or crush the body of the tick, because its fluids (saliva and gut contents) may contain infective organisms.
Step 5—All that Remains – Sometimes, in spite of doing everything right, a tick’s mouth-parts will get left behind in your pet’s skin. If the area doesn’t appear red or inflamed, the best thing to do is to disinfect it and not to try to take the mouth-parts out. A warm compress to the area might help the body expel them, but do not go at it with tweezers.
Step 6—Clean Up – Thoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water (even though you were wearing gloves). Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or by carefully running them over a flame.
Step 7—Keep Watch – Over the next few weeks, closely monitor the bite area for any signs of localized infection. If the area is already red and inflamed, or becomes so later, please bring your pet—and your jarred tick—to your veterinarian for evaluation.
From: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/how-to-remove-a-tick-from-your-pet.aspx
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Dog and Cats and Their Facts
Posted on July 17th, 2012Fun facts about dogs, cats – and stars
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RV Travel Tips
Posted on July 13th, 2012Summer is the time for family vacations and what better way to spend time together than in your RV.
Sometimes odors can get in the way of enjoying your home on wheels but Clear the Air can fix that for you right away. Refrigerator go out? Bathroom smells? Dog was left in the RV too long and had an accident? All these odors and more can be eliminated with Clear the Air.
Check out our helpful RV check list and remember to use Clear the Air to eliminate all RV odors.
Before Your Trip – Make sure your RV is well maintained and ready to go when you are. That’s the first step toward having a safe, trouble-free trip.
- Install a deadbolt door lock on your RV
- Inspect all belts and hoses for cracking, especially radiator hoses. Replace as needed.
- Check headlights, tires (air and tread) and turn signals.
- Check any hitch or towing equipment
- Verify your insurance coverage
- Check your fire extinguisher and smoke alarms
- Clean your cooking vent hood to avoid grease fires
- Leave your itinerary with relatives or friends in case of emergency
On the Road – Be sure to observe the common (but too often overlooked) principles of safety. Obey the speed limit, know your rig height before you go, and buckle your seat belt
Tools to Keep Handy –
- Flashlight
- Jumper Cables
- Flat Repair Spray
- Road Flares
- Adjustable Wrench
- Screwdrivers
- Pliers
- Duct Tape (for temporary repairs to ruptured radiator hoses)
Severe Weather Tips – Park in a sheltered area. In stormy weather, avoid trees or power lines that could fall on your vehicle. The safest place during lightning is inside your RV. If you’re in the path of a tornado, you are safest in a tornado shelter. As an alternative, you can park under a bridge overpass or in a ditch. Avoid parking in low areas that are prone to flash flooding.
Carry Your Insurance Information – Make sure to carry all insurance contact information with you, including a toll-free claim service number if available. If you are injured in an accident, seek medical assistance first and then contact your insurance company or have someone else make the call for you.
Is your RV overloaded? – Did you know that driving or towing an overloaded rig is a leading cause of RV accidents? Even a slight overload or unequal weight distribution can seriously restrict braking and steering, dramatically increase fuel consumption, and cause sudden blowouts or breakdowns. An overweight RV also creates the danger of early failure in your rig’s tires, brakes, wheels, drive train and other components. Learn more about proper RV loading.
RV generator safety precautions – Please read your generator Operator’s Manual carefully so you understand all the precautions for safe, efficient operation. Most accidents occur from failing to follow fundamental safety rules.
A safe campground for everyone. – Camping is a fun time for the whole family. It is a time to leave all of your troubles behind and reconnect with family and friends. Campfires, roasting marshmallows and sing-a-longs are the memories you’ll cherish for the rest of your life. That’s why it is essential to make your campsite a safe place for everyone.
RV propane safety – “Better safe than sorry.” There’s no better advice when it comes to propane safety. While the RV industry has done a lot to ensure high standards regarding propane safety, propane can cause disaster if mishandled or used improperly.
Most importantly HAVE FUN! Happy RV’ing from Clear the Air!
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Greetings From Down Under
Posted on July 12th, 2012Greetings from Australia! We are attending the FAOPMA (Federation of Asian and Oceania Pest Manager Associations) Show in Adelaide Australia. We are here to support our Australian and Asian distributors and to educate Pest Control Operators about Earth Care Odor Eliminators.
We also get to enjoy this beautiful country and wonderful people who make us feel so welcome.
Clear the Air is now in over 20 countries world wide! Thanks to the Pest Control Industry, we have been able to grow our business tremendously and it has been because of attending these pest control shows.
We are “made in the USA and sold in China”!
Check out where we’re at:
AGRICULTURAL SUPPLY
760 737-2282
1435 Simpson Way
Escondido, CA 92029
Bag Stock #: Earth Care Bag
States covered: Southern California
BUG OFF PEST CONTROL CENTER
212 781-2304
1085 Saint Nicolas Ave.
New York, NY 10023
Bag Stock #: Earth Care Bag
States Covered: NY, NJ
WINFIELD (Formerly ESTES INC)
800 562-8123
1925 John Carpenter Fwy, Suite 525
Irving, TX 75063
Bag Stock #: 142601
States Covered: TX, AR, OK, CO, NE, SD
EHRICH DISTRIBUTION (RENTOKIL USA)
888 225-6080
500 Spring Ridge Drive
Wyomissing, PA 19610
Bag Stock #: 164533
Granules – 21 oz canister Stock #: 164532
States Covered: PA, MD, VA, NC
FORSHAW DISTRIBUTION704 372 6790650 State StreetCharlotte, NC 28208Odor Remover Bag Stock #: EAR01230States Covered:FL,GA,OH,NC,TN
GeoTech SUPPLY COMPANY LLC800 589 0541 555 North Guild AveLodi, CA 95240Bag Stock # B193892Granules BucketStates Covered:� CA,OR,WA,NV
JOHN DEERE LANDSCAPES (TURFCARE SUPPLY)
Phone: 770 277-4877
At participating locations in the U.S.A.
Bag Stock #: 091193
Granules 21 oz canister Stock # 091195
Bucket 9 lb Stock # 091194
OLDHAM CHEMICAL CO.
706 855-6832
3701 New Getwell Road
Memphis, TN 38118
Bag Stock #:450-020-1
States Covered: LA, AL, MS, TN, AR, KY, GA, MO
PRECISION CHEMICALS
(225) 752-4565
11114 CEDAR PARK AVE, SUITE A
BATON ROUGE, LA 70809
States Covered: LA, AR, MS, AL
RESIDEX
800 998-2847
570 SOUTH AVENUE EAST
CRANFORD, NJ 07016
Bag Stock #: EARTB193892
States Covered: ALL EASTERN STATES
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RHODES CHEMICAL Co.
800 255 0051
1129 Merriam Lane
Kansas City KS 66103
Bag Stock # ECP193892
States Covered:� North Central USA
TARGET SPECIALTY PRODUCTS� (and B&G CHEMICALS)
562 802-2238
15415 Marquardt Avenue
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Bag Stock #: 2234001
Granules – 14 oz canister Stock #: 2234002
Granules 9 pound Bucket Stock #: 2234009
States Covered: AZ, CA, NV, OR
UNIVAR USA (& SMCPOH)
800 888-4897
Bag Stock #: 641915
Granules – 14 oz canister Stock #: 641916
Granules-9 pound Bucket Stock #: 641917
States Covered: ALL STATES & CARRIBEAN
WAXIE SANITARY SUPPLY
Phone: 858 292-8111
9353 Waxie Way
San Diego, CA 92123-1012
Bag Stock # 165300
States covered: CA
WCS – WILDLIFE CONTROL SUPPLIES
860 844-0101
www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com
17 Connecticut South Drive
East Grandby, CT 06026
Bag Stock # B193892
Skunk Stock # SKUNKC
Bucket Stock # BU9C
States covered: ALL
AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND
GARRARDS PESTICIDES
(073) 881-1693
32 Kenworth Place
Brendale, QLD 45005
Bag Stock #: ODOUR/BAG
Contact:Craig Warnes craig@garrards.com.au
Serves: Australia, New Zealand
GLOBE AUSTRALIA PTY
Phone: (02) 87113 5555
Fax: (02) 8713 5550
87 Allingham Street
Condell Park, NSW 2200
Australia
Bag Stock #
Granules 14 oz canister Stock# PAT156
Granules 9 lb. bucket Stock# PAT155
Email: jgreen@globeaustralia.com.au
RURAL CONTROL
Tel: +61 2 9450 3555
Fax: +61 2 9450 3535
14 Narabang Way, Suite 16
Belrose, NSW 2085
Australia
Granules 28 oz canister Stock# PETODOR28OZ
AGSERV PTY LTD
Tel: 02 9647 2111
Fax:� 02 9648 2262
61105 Derby St.
Silverwater, NSW 2128
Australia
email:� eris@agservaustralia.com
Bags
CANADA
AGRIUM (NU-GRO LTD)
519 757-0077
10 Craig Street
Brantford, ON N3R7J1
Bag Stock #: 5540310
Granules – 9 pound Bucket Stock #: 5540320
Providences covered: ALL
DITCHLING CORPORATION LTD
416 264-3497
2244 Kingston Road
Scarborough, ON M1N 1T9
Bag Stock #: 90011
Granules – 9 pound pail Stock #:91091
GARDEX CHEMICALS – ONTARIO
416 675-1638
7 MERIDIAN ROAD
ETOBICOKE, ON M9W 4Z6
Bag Stock #: 314072
Granules 14 oz canister Stock# 314066
GARDEX CHEMICALS – QUEBEC
514 335-1686
2982 Halpern St.
Ville St. Laurent, Quebec H4S 1R2
Bag Stock #: 314072
Granules 14 oz canister Stock# 314066
GARDEX CHEMICALS – BC
604 421-6445
3123 Thunderbird Crescent
Burnaby, BC V5A 3G1
Bag Stock #: 314072
Granules 14 oz canister Stock# 314066
INTEGRATED PEST SUPPLIES, LTD
604 520-9900
360 EDWORTHY WAY, UNIT 8
NEW WESTMINSTER, BC V3L 5T8
STOCK#:EARTH CARE BAG
UNIVAR CANADA
416 908 2745
5840 Falbourne Street
Mississauga, ON L5R 4B5
Odor Remover Bag Stock #: 781563
CENTRAL AMERICA
TROLEX
Tel:� 503 2534 5555
Calle Gerardo Barrios #1722
Colonia Cucumacayan
San Salvador
El Salvador, Guatamala, & Hondouras
Contact:� Salvador Parras
email:� Salvador.parras@trolex.com.SV
UNIVAR MEXICO
555 515-8893
Benjamin Gomez
Locations throughout Mexico
Bag Stock #: 641915
UNITED KINGDOM, IRELAND, EUROPE, & MIDDLE EAST
CAPITAL PEST CONTROL
Tel:� ++356 21 41059
Fax:� ++ 356 21 422416
13, Triq L-Iskultur
Qomi
Malta Orm 3582
Bags, Cansiters, Buckets
JONES & SON PEST CONTROL SUPPLIES
+01626 835055
UNIT 4, SABRE BLDGS
SABRE CLOSE
HEALTHFIELD INDUSTRIAL ESTATE
NEWTON ABBOT TQ12 6TW
UNITED KINGDOM
Email: daveb@jonesandson.co.uk
Serves: United Kingdom
BAG STOCK#: RODE0085 Professional Odour Remover
PROTECTA S.A.
39 Ag. Paviou str
121 32 Peristeri, Greece
Tel:(+30) 210 85 42 220
Fax: (+30) 210 85 42 253
Email: mlekkos@protecta-health.gr
Serves:GREECE
ECOVAR
PO Box 212678
Dubai, UAE
Tel +971 4 328 5266
Fax +971 4 328 5377
Email Hani@ecovargroup.com
Serves:UAE, SAUDI ARABIA
KILLGERM CHEMICALS LTD
Tel: +44 (0)1924 268400
Fax: +44 (0)1924 267874113 WAKEFIELD ROAD
OSSETT, WEST YORKSHIRE WF5 AR
UNITED KINGDOM
Serves: UK, Ireland, Germany, Poland, Netherlands, Belgium, Spain, Portugal
BAG STOCK#: ODOURBAG
Email: peter.fielding@killgerm.com
PPS GmbH
Tel: 0 71 53/825 35-12
Fax: 07153/8 25 33-97
Max-Eyth-Strabe 13
Hochdorf D-73269
Serves: Germany, Switzerland
Email: hirschmeier@pps-vertrieb.de
Bags
SERVEM LIMITED (Maxboley, Duncormick, Co.,Wesford, Ireland)
Tel: 353 51 563530
Fax: 353 51 563531
Serves: UK, Ireland, Middle East
Bag Stock #: Earth Care Bag
Email: info@servemlimited.com.
PEST CONTROL PRODUCTS OOD
Tel:� (+359 2) 9451495
Store 1,2 Benjo Tsonev Str.
Kiv. Ievski
Sofia 1517
Bulgaria
Email:� Jordon.pcp@gmail.com
Bags, Canisters
AFRICA
PATHOGEN & ENVIRONMENTAL
27 33 346 2954
UNIT 10, HALSTEAD RD
M KONDENI,
PEITERMARITZBURG 3200
REPUBLIC OF SOUTH AFRICA
BAG STOCK #: 234
Email: reon@pathogensolutions.co.za
SAMBID NIGERIA LIMITED
234 1 79025 90
Email: info@sambidng.com
2, OWOEYE CLOSE
OGBA
LAGOS, NIGERIA
EARTH CARE BAGS
GRANULES, 9 POUND BUCKET
GRANULES, 14 OUNCE CANISTERS
ASIA
BENTZ JAZ CHINA
Tel:� 86-22-84269868
Fax:� 86-22 84269878
Tianjin Huihuazhuoyue
Technology Co Ltd
No. 168 Jiulong Street
Shuanggang Zone Jinnan 300350
China
Contact:� Liu Xing Gang
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BENTZ JAZ SINGAPORE
Tel: 65-6841 2986
Fax 65- 6841 2026
48 Toh Guan Road East #06-139
Enterprise Hub 608586
Singapore
Contact:� Allan Heng