The Low Down On Halloween Pet Costumes

Halloween pet costumes – safe or not?

Halloween is upon us and there are many cute Halloween outfits for pets in the stores right now.  We’d like to share some helpful information on making sure your pet is safe with the costume you choose, thanks to the ASPCA.  Check it out:

With Halloween just around the corner, you might be tempted to make your cat or dog a star by dressing him up in the cutest mini-sized costume you can find. But wait—is trick-or-treat apparel really safe for your furry friends?

Our experts suggest putting your pet in a costume only if you’re sure he will enjoy it. Some pets love the limelight: wearing a costume and posing for pictures is a blast! Others prefer to stick to their birthday suits for all occasions, and being dressed like a pumpkin for their pet parents’ amusement can cause unnecessary stress.

If you decide to have your pet wear a costume, here are some helpful safety tips to keep in mind:

• Your pet’s Halloween garb should not constrict his movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe, bark or meow. Be sure to try on costumes in advance—and if your furry friend seems distressed, you’ll want to ditch the mini-pirate hat and vest.
• Examine your pet’s costume and make sure it doesn’t have any small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces that he could choke on. Also, ill-fitting outfits can get caught on external objects or your pet, leading to injury.
• IDs, please! Make sure your dog or cat has proper identification on underneath that cute costume. If for any reason your pet escapes and becomes lost during Halloween festivities, a collar and tags and/or a microchip can be a lifesaver.

A Cat’s Visit To The Vet – Not The Car!!!

There are very few cats that actually don’t mind or even enjoy having to ride in the car. Clear the Air would like to share some car ride tips for your cat.

The most common car trip is usually to the vet, and that event causes enough anxiety by itself. Getting stressed out by the car ride to the vet may make it difficult to tell what is “normal” and what is stress-related on the physical exam for some cats. Here are some tips to reduce travel stress to the vet’s office and beyond.

Cat Transportation
For the safety of the driver and the cat, carriers should always be used for transporting cats (dogs too). Cats can startle easily, jump out of the smallest opening or basically interfere with the driver’s duties when they are stressed. The carrier should be cleansed after each use with a non-toxic soap or cleanser.

The Carrier
Letting your cat explore the cat carrier at their own pace and without any pending trip is always a good idea. Offering a treat or small amount of food in this non-stressed situation may incite some curiosity and comfort, too.

San Diego Humane Society Featured Pet

Check out one of the latest Pets of the Month at the San Diego Humane Society!  This guy, Unger, has a special story and is an employee pick.

Rebecca S., an Adoptions Counselor at the San Diego Humane Society Central Campus, simply adores Unger and his goofy & lovable personality. She was first drawn to the 2-year old Pit Bull Terrier when she saw his remarkably good spirits during his recovery from a leg amputation surgery. His spunk and sweetness was an inspiration. “Unger only has 3 legs, but he never lets it hold him back!” shares Rebecca. In addition to his happy-go-lucky nature and zest for life, this playful pooch loves to cuddle; offering yet another reason that Rebecca thinks Unger is simply the best. As Rebecca puts it, “Unger is a 60 lb., 3-legged lapdog who is ALWAYS willing to cuddle. What could be more awesome than that?!”

Doing his happy wiggle dance, enjoying a toy, and playing fetch are all beloved activities of Unger’s… But even greater is his love for people. Now, all he wants is to find some people of his very own who would let him be a part of their family and share his abundance of love with them daily!

If you are interested in meeting this happy guy, come on down to the San Diego Humane Society Gaines Campus for an introduction! Or, please feel free to call Customer Service at (619) 299-7012 if you’d like some more information.

Let’s work together to get Unger a new forever home!

Is Your Cat Sick? Signs To Look For

We all want the best for our beloved pets and keeping an eye on changes in your cat can help detect any changes in health early enough before they become fatal or an expensive trip to the vet.

Check out the following signs your cat may not be feeling his best:

The Fur – Cats are extremely clean creatures with very good personal hygiene habits; they will almost always take care of their own grooming. A healthy cat’s fur should be soft, clean and have a slightly glossy appearance. If you see any visible changes in the condition of your cat’s coat, the fur becomes dry, matted, dull or almost greasy, this could be a sign your cat is not well. A cat that suddenly stops preening is almost certainly not well. On the other hand, a cat who ‘over grooms’ so that the skin looks sore and red and missing patches of fur could be a sign of stress, a flea infestation, allergy or a skin condition.

Changes To The Cat’s Eyes – Cat’s eyes are extremely striking to look at and they all vary from cat to cat. They can have small, vertically slit pupils, the spindle-shaped cat’s eye or naturally dilated looking pupils. A cat may have different colored eyes. If a cat is unwell, the eyes will show it. If your cat’s pupils seem to change size, either both of them or just in one eye this can spell out trouble in the cat’s nervous system. Pupils with a milky or even filmy look may indicate vision problems.

Ears – Like the coat, a cat will do a good job at maintaining the cleanliness of his ears. With the exception of a bit of ear wax, the ears should usually be fairly clean. If on inspection of your cat’s ears you notice any redness, swelling or a bluish or yellow tinge inside the ears, contact your vet. Same goes for excessively itchy ears, if your cat can not stop scratching his ears it may be ear mites. A cat’s ears are particularly sensitive in extreme temperatures, due to lack of blood flow in the area, your cat could get frostbite on the tips of its ears so keep a close watch on your cat’s ears in winter.

Appetite – Keeping a close eye on your cat’s eating habits can determine its overall health. If your cat has always been a vicarious eater and suddenly shows no interest in food or eats very half heatedly he may not be 100%. But if your cat stops eating all together or struggles to keep food down, this is a serious sign and should be investigated by a vet.

Mouth, Teeth And Gums – If you’ve ever tried to open your cat’s mouth you’ll know it can be somewhat of a challenge, but your cat’s mouth and gums are very strong indicators of illness. The color of the skin inside the mouth should have a pink tinge off of it, skin that is white or yellow toned could be a sign of anemia or liver damage. Skin that shows a slight blue tinge is a cause of concern as this could show poisoning or a respiratory problem. However, some changes to the mouth and gums are normal, the cat’s mouth may take on the same color as its coat this is generally normal as the cat gets older but should be checked out by a vet. Teeth should be inspected from time to time, tartar build up can not only cause bad breath but can cause infections that can enter the cat’s bloodstream and end up infecting his organs.

Featured Pet at San Diego Humane Society

Check out Abigail!  She is an employee pick at The San Diego Humane Society and is ready for her forever home!

Check out the bio about Abigail and why she is so special:

Our Director of Operations for the Central Campus, Morgan H., is happy to select Abigail as her employee pick.  She describes Abigail as adorable, sweet, and silly at times but her outgoing and friendly personality is what attracted Morgan the most, who as a cat lover herself, considers those traits to be perfect for any family who is ready to adopt her.

Morgan says that every time she passes by, Abigail is ready to say hi and draw a smile for her. Her bright yellow eyes in her cute little black face can tell you instantly how she feels and will have you hypnotized with love.  When she plays, she tends to go for interactive games and her favorite toys are wands and anything with feathers.

Abigail is just adorable in every way – when she plays, when she roams, and even when she sleeps. If you think Abigail would make a great addition to your family, visit our Airport Road Campus to meet her in person or call customer service at 619-299-7012.

Would you like to adopt Abigail into your home?  Call the San Diego Humane Society at 619-299-7012.

Keep Your Pets Safe During The Summer Heat

The dog days of summer – what you can do to ensure your pet is safe from the heat.

We all love spending the long, sunny days of summer outdoors with our furry companions, but the ASPCA warns being overeager in hot weather can spell danger.

Take these simple precautions, provided by ASPCA experts, to help prevent your pet from overheating. And if you suspect your pet is suffering from heat stroke, get help from your veterinarian immediately.

• A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must. Make sure your pets get tested for heartworm if they aren’t on year-round preventive medication. Do parasites bug your animal companions? Ask your doctor to recommend a safe flea and tick control program.

• Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water when it’s hot outdoors. Make sure your pets have a shady place to get out of the sun, be careful to not over-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it’s extremely hot.

• Symptoms of  overheating in pets include excessive panting or difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, drooling, mild weakness, stupor or even collapse. They can also include seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomit along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees. Animals with flat faces, like Pugs and Persian cats, are more susceptible to heat stroke since they cannot pant as effectively. These pets, along with the elderly, the overweight, and those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible.

• Never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. “On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time-even with the windows open-which could lead to fatal heat stroke,” says Dr. Louise Murray, Vice President of ASPCA Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. Also, leaving pets unattended in cars in extreme weather is illegal in several states.

• Do not leave pets unsupervised around a pool-not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.

• “During warmer months, the ASPCA sees an increase in injured animals as a result of High-Rise Syndrome, which occurs when pets-mostly cats-fall out of windows or doors and are seriously or fatally injured,” says Dr. Murray. “Pet owners need to know that this is completely preventable if they take simple precautions.” Keep all unscreened windows or doors in your home closed and make sure adjustable screens are tightly secured.

• Feel free to trim longer hair on your dog, but never shave your dog: The layers of dogs’ coats protect them from overheating and sunburn. Brushing cats more often than usual can prevent problems caused by excessive heat. And be sure that any sunscreen or insect repellent product you use on your pets is labeled specifically for use on animals.

• When the temperature is very high, don’t let your dog linger on hot asphalt. Being so close the ground, your pooch’s body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum.

• Commonly used flea and tick products, rodenticides (mouse and rat baits), and lawn and garden insecticides can be harmful to cats and dogs if ingested, so keep them out of reach. When walking your dog, steer clear of areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals. Keep citronella candles, oil products and insect coils out of pets’ reach as well.

• Taking Fido to a backyard barbeque or party? Remember that the food and drink offered to guests may be poisonous to pets. Keep alcoholic beverages away from pets, as they can cause intoxication, depression and comas. Similarly, remember that the snacks enjoyed by your human friends should not be a treat for your pet; any change of diet, even for one meal, may give your dog or cat severe digestive ailments. Avoid raisins, grapes, onions, chocolate and products with the sweetener xylitol.

Stop Your Dog From Urinating In The House

No more dog urine in the house.

House training is a challenging part of dog ownership, and some breeds of dogs are more resistant to house training than others. Dogs urinate in the house due to inadequate house training, anxiety and the lingering smell of urine.

Dogs will also urinate inside if they are forced to wait too long to go outside. You can effectively house train your dog using positive, reward-based methods.

Follow these steps to house train your dog effectively:

Put your dog in a crate when you are not supervising it or are not home. Dogs are unlikely to soil the area in which they sleep unless it’s a true emergency, so keeping your dog in a crate deters it from urinating inside. Every time your dog urinates inside this encourages it to continue doing so, so preventing accidents is the first step in proper house training.

Take your dog outside at least every two hours when you first begin house training. You should also take your dog out when you get home, before you leave, after eating or drinking, after playtime and when your dog wakes up. When your dog urinates outside, praise him lavishly, click the training clicker and give your dog a treat. This teaches your dog to associate going outside with receiving a reward and will increase the frequency with which the dog goes outside.

Take your dog outside immediately if he has an accident. This helps your dog develop an association between urinating and being outside, and will discourage future accidents.

Remove the scent of urine from any places where your dog has urinated by using Clear the Air Odor Eliminator for Carpet/Furniture. Dogs are driven by scent and are far more likely to urinate in areas that smell like urine.

You can order our products online at www.cleartheair.com.  We currently have a promotion for the month of August: Buy 2 Get 2 Free of our Carpet/Furniture Odor Eliminator.  Simply add 4 canisters to your shopping cart, enter “carpetodor” into the redemption code and the price of two canisters is automatically taken away from your total.

Tick Removal For Your Pets

Removing ticks from your pets – what you need to know!

Ewe, it is flea and tick season!  Keep fleas and ticks away with our helpful tips.

Need help on removing those pesky ticks your dog and cat pick up from outside?  Check out ASPCA’s article:

So, you’ve found a tick on your pet—how do you deal with it? While it’s important to get these little suckers off quickly, ASPCA veterinarians advise that you stay calm and don’t rush it. Moving too fast when removing a tick could potentially create more problems, both for your pet and for you.

While the following instructions employ tweezers, be aware that there are some very good products on the market designed specifically for safe tick removal. If you live in a tick-heavy area or are taking your pets to a place where they are likely to get ticks, it’s a good idea to buy one of these tools and have it on hand. They generally work better than tweezers at getting out the whole tick, and are relatively inexpensive.

Step-by-Step Tick Removal Instructions

Step 1—Prepare its Final Resting Place – Throwing a tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, and it’s actually best to hold on to it for awhile for veterinary testing in case your pet falls ill from the bite. Be ready with somewhere to put the tick after you’ve removed it—the best option is a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol.

Step 2—Don’t Bare-Hand It – Put on latex or rubber gloves so you’ll never have direct contact with the tick or your pet’s bite area. Ticks can carry infective agents that may enter your bloodstream through breaks in your skin or through mucous membranes (if you touch your eyes, nostrils or mouth).

Step 3—Grab a Partner – You don’t want your pet squirming away before you’re finished, so if possible, have a helper on hand to distract, soothe or hold her still.

Step 4—The Removal – Treat the bite area with rubbing alcohol and, using a pair of tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the animal’s skin as possible. Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure. Place the tick in your jar.

• Do not twist or jerk the tick! This may leave the mouth-parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate infective fluids.
• Do not squeeze or crush the body of the tick, because its fluids (saliva and gut contents) may contain infective organisms.

Step 5—All that Remains – Sometimes, in spite of doing everything right, a tick’s mouth-parts will get left behind in your pet’s skin. If the area doesn’t appear red or inflamed, the best thing to do is to disinfect it and not to try to take the mouth-parts out. A warm compress to the area might help the body expel them, but do not go at it with tweezers.

Step 6—Clean Up – Thoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water (even though you were wearing gloves). Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or by carefully running them over a flame.

Step 7—Keep Watch – Over the next few weeks, closely monitor the bite area for any signs of localized infection. If the area is already red and inflamed, or becomes so later, please bring your pet—and your jarred tick—to your veterinarian for evaluation.

From: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/how-to-remove-a-tick-from-your-pet.aspx

Dog Care Tips

If you are new to dog ownership or have had dogs all your life, there are some crucial tips which every dog owner needs to be aware of and sometimes reminded of.

While dogs are fun and loyal creatures, they can also be complex. It takes a fair amount of understanding to care for dogs—one that requires a lot more effort than just feeding them every day.  Check out our helpful dog care tips:

• Stay away from unhealthy additives: During your search, you’ll find lots of pet products that have been manufactured out of low quality ingredients and enhanced with artificial sweeteners. Avoid such option. Before you buy a product, go through the nutritional label to find out exactly what it contains.  Search for foods that are manufactured from healthy protein sources such as chicken or beef. Avoid foods that contain high percentages of bone meal.

• Don’t ignore fleas or ticks: Combined, fleas and ticks form a larger percentage of most canine health problems. Dogs that play outdoors are highly susceptible to these. Pay attention to your dog. If left untreated, ticks can go on to cause severe conditions such as anemia. Your dog may also spread the fleas and ticks to other members of the home.

• Give your dog somewhere cool to relax: Don’t just assign any resting place for your dog. Pick a spot in your home where your dog will get enough protection from the heat. Dogs are more prone to heat strokes than humans. Ensure that your dog gets enough water during the day, especially during the warmer months. Design a regular feeding schedule. This will help when the dog is being housebroken.

• Stock up on pet supplies and equipment: For the best living experience, take the time to get everything that you might need. For instance, it’s always advisable that you get your dog a collar. It doesn’t have to be very stylish but it should at least be comfortable. You can also get feeding bowls and pet wash supplies to make grooming easier.

It’s a “ruff” life…Part 2 of Why your dog barks

Wonder why your dog barks for certain reasons?

Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on learning about the behavior of your dog and why he barks.  Enjoy part 2 of our blog – taken from The San Diego Humane Society.

Request Barking

When they want something, dogs will experiment with various behaviors to see if any of them work. They quickly figure out that barking works with their owners. If you don’t like barking, stop rewarding it with attention, door-opening services, releasing from crates etc. Period. No buts.

Rather than the dog telling you when to take him out, take him out at regular intervals, making sure none of them are preceded by barking. Don’t let a barking dog out of a crate until he’s quiet. Ignore dogs who bark at you. Keep in mind that if you have been rewarding it for a while, the barking will get worse before it goes into extinction. You’re changing the rules and the dog will be frustrated at first. Whatever you do, don’t crack and reward the WORSE version of the barking!

Above all, start noticing the dog when he’s quiet. Teach him that there are payoffs for lying quietly, chewing on a chew-toy and refraining from barking.

Barking When Alone

This is a common form of request barking: the dog is requesting that you come back. There is also often some anxiety involved. When you get a new dog or puppy, set a good precedent right away. Don’t smother him with your constant presence and attention. Come and go a lot and never go to him when he’s vocalizing. Wait until he’s quiet for at least 30 seconds so you don’t risk rewarding the noise making. If your dog already has a habit, you must start a multi-pronged assault:

1) When you’re at home, don’t let him shadow you around: lock him in various rooms away from you to practice “semi-absences.” Reprimand or ignore any barking (ignoring is actually a more powerful tool). If you choose to reprimand it, burst through the door, scold the dog and then immediately disappear again, closing the door behind you. Remember that he’s barking to get you back: with some dogs, a reprimand is better than nothing so you may be rewarding him…

2) Practice loads of brief absences every day. Go out and come back in after 2 or 3 seconds over and over to get the dog desensitized to your departures. Do it in a matter of fact way, more or less ignoring the dog whatever he does. Then do outings of 10 seconds, 30, a minute, 10 minutes etc. Mix it up. Dogs who are anxious need to learn that your departure doesn’t usually mean a traumatically long period of isolation. Keep all your departures and arrival greetings low key. Never enter when the dog is barking. Wait for a lull of at least 30 seconds.

3) Dogs are a highly social species. They don’t cope well with prolonged isolation. Consider a second dog, daycare or dog-walker at lunchtime if you work all day.

4) Increase physical and mental stimulation. In a natural environment, a lot of your dog’s energy would be spent acquiring his food. He would have to find prey, run it down, hang onto and kill it and then rip it apart to eat it. He’d have to attempt several finds and run-downs before he successfully made a kill. That’s work! Tire him out more before long absences. Walks don’t cut it as exercise for dogs. Most dogs like getting out and checking out the environment but it’s not exercise. Exercise means exertion. Start working your dog out with high-intensity games like ball-fetch, Frisbee, tug-of-war, hide & seek, free-play with other dogs etc.

Make him work to acquire his food. Hide it around the house, scatter it in the grass in the backyard, make him extract it from the hollow inside of a bone or Kong toy (which you also hide), make him earn it piece by piece for obedience exercises or tricks, make him solve problems. Your imagination is the limit. Make your absences predict that his meal is hidden around the house so that he has to get busy when you leave if he wants to eat. Dogs are programmed to work for their food. It’s no wonder there are so many problems related to under stimulation.

5) Get him more focused on toys. When you play with him, incorporate toys. Hold chewies for him. Teach him to find a toy that you’ve hidden in the room and then celebrate his find with tug of war or fetch. Teach him his toys by name. Ask him to bring you one when you come home. Don’t greet him until he’s brought it.

Then have a vigorous game of fetch. Leave him stuffed chew toys during absences: fill hollow bones or Kongs with cheese, peanut butter, cookies or combos.

If your dog is anxious to the point of panic attacks, he has separation anxiety and need formal desensitization and/or medication. Contact a competent trainer.

Spooky Barking

In this case, it is important to get at the underlying under socialization. Socialize puppies extensively to as wide a variety of people and dogs as possible. You cannot overdo it. Expose them to plenty of places, experiences, sights & sounds and make it all fun with praise, games & treats. Find and attend a good puppy class.

If you missed the boat socializing your puppy, you’ll have to do remedial work with your adolescent or adult.

Whatever it is that your dog is spooky about must now become associated with lunch. This is how under socialized dogs work for their food. If he doesn’t like strangers, meals need to fed bit by bit around strangers until he improves. It takes a while to re-socialize adults so stick with it.

Boredom Barking

If you don’t have time for a dog, don’t get a dog. Dogs are not space-intensive, they are time-intensive. If you have an outside dog, train him to be an inside dog. There is no quick fix here: you must meet your dog’s basic needs for stimulation, exercise and companionship.