• Keep Your Cat Happy With These Tips

    Posted on May 30th, 2012
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    Since Clear the Air has dedicated May to “Cat Month”, we would like to share some easy helpful tips to make sure your indoor cat has all she needs.

    It doesn’t take much to make your furry feline a happy camper but it is important to make sure you are providing her with all she needs to make her, and you, happy!

    Remember our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator is now available at PETCO.  Also, send in your Cutest Cat Photo to win 2 FREE CANISTERS of our Odor Eliminator.  You can email them to YourCommunityPathway@gmail.com or you can post them on Facebook.  In order to make your cat’s home an enjoyable and comfortable one, make sure you have the following:

    Personal Space – Like all cat lovers know, cats are very independent animals. They enjoy hiding under, on top, and/or inside of many locations in the home. They are very curious creatures. A great way to give your cat the space it needs is by getting him or her a perch. A perch will allow them to elevate themselves from the ground level and observe from above. They will feel safe and secure while enjoying their surroundings. Perches are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, and you can even attach them to a windowsill so your cat can get a better view of the outside.

    A Bed – Cats are most vulnerable when they are sleeping, so it’s important to provide them with a quiet and secure resting place. For those who prefer that their cat stay off beds and other furniture, providing your cat with a comfortable resting place in a quiet part of the house is the best alternative. This area, however, must be in a place where necessities like food, water, and litter box, are still accessible. Cat beds can be purchased, or a snug blanket or towel will work just fine. Remember, just like you, cats don’t like being disturbed while they sleep.

    Scratching/Climbing Post – Cats scratch as a way to stretch their muscles, shed old cuticle, sharpen their claws, and leave scent marks. Providing your cat with something to scratch will not only keep them happy, but it will save your furniture. When figuring out where to place a scratching post it’s important to keep in mind where your cat typically likes to scratch. You can place the post near this area in order to keep your cat from scratching that particular object. Keep the scratching post in close proximity to daily necessities and try not to move the post. If you do move it, try to move it as gradually as possible. Lastly, trim the sharp tips of your cat’s nails or purchase nail caps to reduce damage from scratching.

    Litter Box – Cats use elimination as a way to mark their territory. So, in order to keep them from eliminating all over your house, it’s important to provide them an attractive litter box. First, cats appreciate a clean litter box. So, if you do not regularly clean out their litter box, they will most likely find a cleaner spot which may end up being somewhere in your house. Second, cats prefer a large uncovered litter box. This gives them a large space to move around and stand up straight. Third, most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented litter. Most cats are turned off by a scented litter. Lastly, the litter box should be placed in a quiet, secure and accessible place. This ensures the cat privacy, and eliminates other animals or people sneaking up on it. The “golden rule” is one litter box per cat, plus one. So for those with multiple cats, and/or multiple levels in your house, it is important to have multiple boxes on each level. Remember to also always add Clear the Air Cat Odor Eliminator to the litter box to reduce odors.

    Toys – Although indoor cats don’t have to hunt for their food, they still have the urge to pounce. Toys are extremely important to the health and happiness of your cat. Something as simple as a ball to roll around or a stick with a string and a toy attached can amuse an indoor cat for hours. Taking a more realistic approach, you can give your cat a fake mouse that moves or makes noise.

    It isn’t difficult to keep you indoor cat healthy and happy. All it takes is providing your cat with privacy, a comfortable place to sleep, something to scratch, an appropriate litter box, and most importantly, toys! Keeping your cat happy and healthy will not only increase their happiness, but yours as well.

  • Arthritis And Your Cat

    Posted on May 25th, 2012
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    Dealing with arthritis with your cat.

    Since it is CAT MONTH at Clear the Air, we would like to share some tips on what to know about feline arthritis, what you can do to ease the pain and more.

    What Is Arthritis? Arthritis, also known as osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease, causes pain and inflammation in a cat’s joints. Although fairly uncommon in felines, arthritis tends to affect the elbow joint when it does strike—but many joints can be afflicted.

    What Are the Symptoms of Arthritis in Cats? Felines suffering from arthritis may show overall stiffness, swelling of the joints, lethargy, lameness, decreased flexibility and discomfort when you pet or handle them in certain positions. You may also notice subtle behavioral changes, including:

    • Decreased activity
    • Lapsed litterbox habits (due to pain caused by getting in and out of the box)
    • Hesitancy to run, jump or climb stairs

    What Causes Arthritis in Cats? Joints naturally degenerate as part of the aging process. Cartilage forms a cushion between the bones at a joint. As cats get older, the cartilage deteriorates and becomes less flexible.

    Arthritis can develop due to injury, dislocation or infection in the joint. Extra weight can also put extra strain on a cat’s joints.

    How Is Arthritis Diagnosed? A veterinarian may conduct a physical exam, take radiographs and perform other diagnostic tests to help determine the cause of the pain and inflammation in your cat’s joints.

    Which Cats Are Prone to Arthritis?  Arthritis most often affects older cats, as their joints degenerate naturally as part of the aging process—but can occur as result of trauma or infection in cats of all ages.

    How Can Arthritis Be Treated? Once symptoms of arthritis set in, there is no cure—but you can work with your veterinarian to minimize your cat’s pain while keeping her healthy. Some general treatment options include:

    • Anti-inflammatory/pain medications
    • Possible use of nutritional supplements to help replenish cartilage
    • Weight loss if necessary, which has been shown to benefit overweight cats with arthritis.

    Are Cats with Arthritis Able to Exercise? Talk to your vet about an exercise program for your pet. Short, gentle play can be helpful in some cases, but you’ll need to introduce these sessions slowly and gradually. Vigorous play involving leaping, jumping and turning is to be avoided.

    How Can I Make My Arthritic Cat More Comfortable? If your cat has arthritis, here are a few things you can do to make her feel better:

    • Give her a cozy blanket or cat bed.
    • When she’s relaxed and at ease, give her a gentle massage.
    • Groom the areas of her body that may be hard for her to reach.
    • Make sure she has easy, direct access to her litterbox and food and water bowls.

    This article is from the ASPCA.

  • Cat Grooming – Helpful Tips To Prevent Vet Bills

    Posted on May 22nd, 2012
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    While cats are very self-sufficient, making them an easy keeper as a pet, they do sometimes need a little assistance in the grooming department.

    To ensure optimum health and prevent costly vet bills, check out some of Clear the Air’s grooming tips for your cat.

    Trim Your Cat’s Claws: Trimming claws needn’t strike terror in the heart of you or your cat. Even an adult cat that is unaccustomed to nail clipping can grow to accept the procedure, although it’s best to start when the cat is young and everything is novel. Kittens’ tiny needle-like claws should be trimmed once a week; by the time a cat is about eight months old, you can reduce the trimming to once every two to four weeks for the rest of the cat’s life.

    Place your cat on a table or hold him on your lap, or kneel down and clamp him between your legs. Grip a paw firmly and gently press on the pad to expose the claw. Don’t forget to also trim the dewclaws that are further up along the paw. If you have a polydactyl cat, one with extra toes similar to thumbs, the claws in the folds between the paws and the “thumbs” also need trimming.

    Using special clippers, trim off the clear, curved part of the claw in one rapid motion, cutting straight across and making sure to stay at least one-tenth of an inch away from the thicker part containing the vein, or “quick.” When in doubt, cut off less claw and do the job more often. If you do accidentally cut the vein, stay calm. The claw will bleed, but your demeanor will affect your cat’s reaction. Ideally, have clotting powder, a styptic pencil, cornstarch, or soft bar-soap on hand before you begin and apply it to the end of the claw. Or, you can press a gauze pad, clean cloth, or tissue over the damaged nail for several minutes until the bleeding stops.

    Some cats (even first-time adults) will allow you to cut all their claws right away. For less cooperative cats, start by simply handling their paws more and more, pressing lightly on the paw pads to extend the claws. Once this is accepted, try clipping one or two claws, stopping and letting your cat go whenever he starts to resist; eventually, you will cut them all. A team effort may be necessary to contain a writhing cat, with one person firmly grasping the loose skin at the scruff of the neck or holding the cat wrapped in a towel with just one paw at a time free, leaving the second person to handle the task of clipping.

    Get The Eyes and Ears Clean: Check inside the ears every week and if you see a waxy residue, wipe it off with a cotton ball moistened with a small amount of feline ear cleaner or baby oil. (Never use a swab on a stick; if your cat moves suddenly, you may injure his ear canal or eardrum.) Hold the earflap gently and dab carefully with the cotton ball. If your cat fidgets during cleaning, restrain him as you would when cutting his claws.

    Brushing Your Cat: Although cats are tidy creatures by nature and groom themselves, they still need regular brushing. In addition to removing loose hair that would otherwise be swallowed or left on furniture, brushing promotes good circulation, stimulates the skin, and keeps the coat shiny. It’s also a way to bond with your cat, as well as to check for any body changes that may signal a visit to the vet.

    The procedure is much the same for short-hair and longhair cats, but the tools will differ, depending on the length and texture of your cat’s fur.

    Be sure to check a longhair cat for mats before you start brushing and very gently untangle any you find using your fingers or a wide-toothed comb. Soak more tenacious knots with detangling liquid or spray.

    If a mat won’t come apart, you can, if you’re very careful, snip it out with blunt-tipped scissors. Your cat’s skin is very sensitive, as well as being loose, and it’s fairly easy to make an accidental nick. Protect your cat by placing a fine-toothed comb between the mat and his skin. The alternative is to have mats removed by a professional groomer; if your cat is badly matted, this is the only option.

    Begin grooming by passing the brush along the cat’s head and back. By following the same line you would if you were petting him, chances are the cat will relax, lulled by the pleasant sensation. Then, brush down the length of each side. As you go, stop often to clean the brush of collected hair.

    Next, brush down from below the chin along the throat and chest. To brush the inside of your cat’s leg, hold him against your chest and reach over the outside of the leg. Your cat may object when you get to such areas as the rear thighs, the region where the legs join the body, and the belly.

    Be gentle and reassuring, but persevere without overdoing it. If the cat is getting anxious, stop and continue later; otherwise, you risk turning grooming into a hateful experience.

    Do the tail last, one small section at a time, carefully combing in the direction that the hair grows. Then, repeat the sequence with a fine-toothed comb, taking particular care on sensitive areas, to pick up any remaining loose hairs.

    Bathing Your Cat: An older or injured cat may not be able to keep itself adequately clean and may need to be bathed. Some cats become very agitated during the process, however, so it’s up to you to make bathing as stress-free as possible for all participants. You’ll probably want a helper so one of you can hold the cat while the other does the shampooing. Both of you will probably get quite wet, so have lots of towels at the ready. It’s also possible that you may get scratched, so take a few moments to trim the claws first.

    Placing something in the sink or tub that your cat can grip with his claws — a window screen, rubber mat, or several thick towels — may help him feel slightly more in control and less inclined to struggle.

    Never dump your cat into a sink full of water; total immersion is not the idea here. Instead, fill the sink with just enough warm water to rinse him easily.

    Hold your cat firmly, with one hand grasping his front legs, and place him in the water. Pour water over him with a small container and use a washcloth to wet more delicate areas such as the face and ears.

    Standard shampoos formulated for cats should be rubbed in thoroughly, and fully rinsed. Any traces of shampoo left on the cat’s coat can cause irritation; so don’t rush through this stage. If you are washing the cat with a flea shampoo, follow the directions for the product to the letter. After properly rinsing your cat, wrap him in a thick towel and hold him close to absorb the excess water. Continue drying by carefully squeezing the towel against his body and pulling it away again.

    You can gently rub short-hair cats with a towel, but this may cause matting in cats with longer coats. A small hair dryer can be useful (unless your cat is frightened by the noise of the motor). Keep the hair dryer on its lowest setting and never point it in your cat’s face. Once he is dry, brush him thoroughly and compliment him effusively on how wonderful he looks!

    Dental Hygiene: As part of a regular checkup, your vet will look for signs of plaque and tartar buildup on your cat’s teeth. Left unchecked, periodontal disease can actually contribute to heart, liver, or kidney disease. If a significant problem has begun to develop, a thorough cleaning, requiring the cat to be anesthetized, will have to be scheduled.

    To avoid the bother and expense of such cleaning, which is typically required every few years, brush your cat’s teeth at least every other day. This is not as difficult, or crazy, as it might sound, as long as you introduce the procedure very slowly. For the first few days, sit quietly with your cat and gently stroke the outside of his cheeks. Then, let him lick a small quantity of cat dentifrice — never human toothpaste; off your finger.

    Next, place a small quantity of the paste on a cat-sized toothbrush or gauze square. Gently push back the cat’s top lip with your thumb and brush one or two teeth and the neighboring gums in a circular motion, pressing very lightly. Over several days, gradually brush a larger number of teeth. After each short session, reward your cat with a treat, preferably one for tartar control.

  • Cat Care Tips

    Posted on May 16th, 2012
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    While cats are usually easy keepers as pets and don’t really require much activity as a dog would, there are some cat care tips that are important to educate yourself on.

    Clear the Air would like to share some surprising top ten cat care tips from Dr Marty Becker, the author of “Your Cat: The Owner’s Manual”.

    Cats Dig Running Water – A pet drinking fountain is one of the best investments you can make in your cat’s health.  Cats find cool, running water to be appealing — it’s a natural behavior, because stream water is less likely to be contaminated than a stagnant pool.  Cats tend to be chronically dehydrated, and feline fountains are proven to get cats to drink more water. Many feline health problems can be aided with proper hydration, and it’s more efficient than leaving a faucet dripping to entice your cat to drink.

    Pick a Pretty, Allergy-Easy Kitty – While no cat is guaranteed to not be an allergy trigger — and people with life-threatening reactions are better off without a cat — it’s possible to pick a pet who might be less of a problem.  Black, unneutered males are purported the worst choice for people with allergies, since they typically have higher levels in their saliva of FelD1, the protein that triggers sneezing and wheezing. Some breeds of cat, most notably the Siberian, have a high number of individual animals with low levels of FelD1. If you’re paying for a  “hypo-allergenic” cat, insist on saliva testing. If you’re choosing a kitten, choose a light-colored female, and get her spayed.

    Panting Is a Problem – Dogs pant up to 300 times a minute to cool themselves, but if you see your cat panting it may be a medical emergency. While sometimes it can just be from extreme anxiety, it can also be a sign of respiratory or cardiovascular problems, warranting an immediate call to the veterinarian.

    Canned Cat Food Is Preferred – Veterinarians recommend feeding canned cat food over kibble. Canned foods have a higher percentage of protein and fat than dry foods and are significantly higher in water content than kibble (70 percent vs 10 percent). Also, canned foods tend to be more palatable to cats that are finicky, elderly or have dental problems.  Better health for your cat can start by closing the all-day kitty kibble buffet and feeding measured amounts of a good canned food. Talk to your veterinarian.

    Want a Cat to Love You? Look Away! – What can you do to get a cat to come to you? Avoid eye contact. Cats don’t like eye contact with strangers, so will almost always go to the person who’s not looking at them. This also is the answer to the age-old mystery of why cats always seem to go to the one person in the room who doesn’t like cats. It’s because she may be the only one not “rudely” — in the cat’s view — staring.

    Tale of the Tail – You can tell a cat’s mood by watching his tail. Tail upright, happy; tail moving languidly, keep petting me; tail low, twitching erratically, I’m on the prowl; tail swishing rapidly, beware and leave me alone. If you’ve ever been surprised when a cat you’re petting suddenly grabs you angrily, you missed a tail tale: The unhappy twitch of the tail tip would have told you to stop petting, now.

    Surprising Signs of a Cat in Pain – Chronic pain is not uncommon in cats, especially as they age. Cat-lovers miss the signs of a pet in pain because cats are good at hiding it. Any cat observed as being hesitant to jump up or climb, not using the litter box, not able to groom themselves as well, more aggressive or more withdrawn need to see the veterinarian. These are classic signs of discomfort, and need to be addressed.

    What Litter Do Cats Really Prefer?

    Forget the people-pleasing scents. Forget special formulas or alternative ingredients. Your cat is more likely to prefer unscented clumping litter, according to preference tests. And if you want to keep your cat using “the bathroom,” be sure to keep it clean, place it in a quiet, cat-friendly place and don’t use any liners in the box — cats don’t like them. None of these changes will address a cat who has stopped using the box because of illness. Urinary tract infections and other health issues need to be addressed by your veterinarian before box re-training can commence.

    How to Prevent a Finicky Cat – Feed your kitten a few different foods so he or she will experience different textures and flavors of food. Just as people typically stick with the toothpaste they start with as youngsters, cats who are only exposed to one type of food will be less likely try other brands and kinds. That can be a real problem if the favored food goes off the market, or your cat needs to eat a special food for health reasons. So mix it up on your kitten.

    Don’t Toss That Ratty Scratching Post – When a post starts looking worn is when a cat starts liking it best. Get a new one and your cat may switch to the arm of the couch. Instead, refresh your cat’s post by adding some coils of fresh sisal rope — it’s cheap, easy to add and cats love to dig their claws into it.

  • Why A Cat Can Benefit Seniors

    Posted on May 9th, 2012
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    Cats make wonderful pets for people of all ages.

    Wherever you live, a cat can be an ideal pet for you.  There are many reasons why but we would like to focus on the benefits cats provide for senior citizens.

    Cats can improve your health – Even though cats require fairly minimal care, the care they do require provides much-needed exercise for older owners. Even seniors who have arthritis or other physical limitations can easily care for cats. Because cats need us to care for them by scooping their boxes, feeding them and giving them fresh water, cats get us up and moving whether we want to or not! Caring for and feeding a cat calls for routines and activities seniors might not otherwise have, providing important mental stimulation. This not only benefits senior citizens’ overall health, but can help them live longer and healthier lives.

    Cats can improve your mood – Seniors can become lonely, or even depressed, when they retire or lose their spouse, or when their children move away. Some seniors become depressed simply because they do not get out and about as much anymore. Studies show that pets help seniors overcome loneliness and depression by providing affection, company, entertainment and a sense of responsibility and purpose. Seniors with pets tend to get up, talk and smile much more than when there are no pets around.  Think about it, when you are home alone with your cat, do you usually say a few words to him?  It definitely makes being alone more enjoyable when you have your furry feline around.

    Cats over dogs – Although dogs can also make great pets for some seniors and provide the same benefits as cat ownership, careful consideration should be given to the care, training and exercise requirements of a dog. Many older owners simply can’t keep up with a dog’s needs, which makes adopting a cat a much better choice. Unlike dogs, cats are happy staying indoors all the time.  Most adult cats require only 20 to 30 minutes of playtime per day, and interactive play does not require the owner to be mobile. A kitty fishing pole or laser toy lets senior cat owners engage their cat in play while sitting in their favorite chair. Cats are also very content to spend most of their time sleeping on their owner’s lap or bed which makes this pet a perfect fit for someone less active.

    Important tips to keep in mind when choosing your new pet cat

    • Lifespan – Before acquiring any pet, it is important to consider the lifespan of the animal and what will happen in the event that the owner is no longer able to care for the pet. In many cases, seniors need to move into a living facility that does not allow pets, or the pet outlives them. Both dogs and cats can live 15 to 20 years, so it is important that seniors have a younger friend or family member who is willing to take responsibility for the pet if necessary.
    • Is a kitten or adult cat better for your senior – Many people think that getting a kitten or puppy for a senior will help “keep them young,” when in reality, puppies and kittens often provide seniors with more stress than enjoyment. Choosing to adopt an adult cat or dog is generally a wise choice for seniors. Adult animals have fewer exercise and training demands, making them easier for seniors to keep up with. Additionally, older pets are also less likely to outlive their senior owner.
    • Talk with shelters to find the right fit for your cat – Arrange to visit your local animal shelter to view the cats available for adoption. Talk to the staff and ask for a calm, easygoing, adult lap cat with minimal medical requirements. The last thing a senior wants is an antisocial cat or one who is prone to urinary tract infections! Once your senior loved one decides on a cat — or two! – you can help shop for pet supplies (including a collar and ID tag) and set everything up  in a convenient location for both owner and kitty.

    Support – If you are getting a cat for the senior in your life, make sure you can provide follow-up care and support.  Some seniors are not able to get to the store for needed supplies, while others are dealing with health or behavior problems with the cat and don’t know what to do. Be sure to check in with your loved one and their kitty to make sure things are going well.

    If you know of a senior who is having difficulty affording veterinary care or food for a pet, be sure to contact your local animal shelter, food bank or veterinary clinic. Most professionals in the animal field understand how important pets are to seniors, so they may offer low-cost services and supplies just for seniors.

  • Kitty Cool Down Tips for Summertime

    Posted on May 3rd, 2012
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    With summertime approaching it is important to take extra steps to make sure your pets stay cool.

    A cat that becomes overheated in the summer can suffer from dehydration, shallow breathing and can even get heatstroke.

    Always provide plenty of clean, fresh water for your fuzzy feline.  Help your kitty enjoy a happy and safe summer this year by following these helpful kitty cool down steps:

    • Let Your Cat Decide His Cool Spot – Cats are smart about comfort at all times including during the heat.  Ever notice your cat curling up in the sink or sprawling out on the tile?  Porcelain and tile stay cool even when it’s hot outside providing a great place for your kitty to cool down.
    • Calm Kitty – If your cat is running around too much during a really hot day, he will soon become exhausted and dehydrated.  Provide a relaxed, indoor place that is both cool and darkened to allow your kitty to cool down.  Don’t initiate play when he is in an agitated state.
    • Create A Hide Out – Use a cardboard box or something else that is out of the way and dark near a cool spot.  You can line it with a terry towel or other type of cotton, breathable natural fabric that isn’t too warm.  Sticking an ice pack inside a sock and placing it in his retreat is also a helpful added cooling affect.
    • Shady Garden Area – Make sure your yard has some shady spots for your outdoor cat to enjoy.  If you provide them, your kitty will find them.  It should be somewhere a gentle breeze is available.  If you have outdoor buildings such as greenhouses or sheds, double check you haven’t locked your kitty in there before closing the door.  This could end up killing your cat as temperatures rise in these types of shelters.
    • Wet Towels – Most cats don’t like the water however you can help cool your cat down with dampened towels.  If you simply dampen a cloth or paper towel and stroke your cat with it, it can help cool him down.  Good areas to cool down, where cats get warmest, is on their bellies, the pads of their paws, armpits, under their chins and on the outside of their ears.
    • Brush Your Cat – This helps take away any matted fur which can trap heat and helps air flow freely through his coat.  This is especially important for long haired breeds of cats.  Do not shave your cat as this can expose your cat to the sun and result in sunburn and skin cancer.
    • Always Have Water Available – Dehydration is a real risk for cats during the hot summer months so constant water access is essential. Always, always have water available for your kitty.
  • Black Dogs – Last To Get Adopted

    Posted on April 27th, 2012
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    When it comes to adoption, black dogs are often passed over for whatever reason and end up being the last to be adopted, if adopted at all.

    Some people still have a harmful superstition of black dogs, place a negative label on them, fear that the color of the dog makes them aggressive or dangerous or think they are just too ordinary looking.

    Some people may not be aware of the horrifying rate black dogs are euthanized over lighter colored dogs.  While the idea of doggie discrimination sounds strange, “black dog syndrome” does happen.  It is usually an unconscious occurrence and it may explain why black cats have the same problem finding a home.  People whom are superstitious about black cats may unconsciously harbor superstitions about black dogs as well.

    Sometimes people may mistake black dogs to be older than other lighter dogs.  This is because they usually have bits of facial hair that may be white or gray, making the dog appear older than he/she really is.  Others may return their black dog to the shelter because they have gotten new furniture and they don’t want the dark hair that their pet sheds.

    Another interesting factor that keep black dogs from being adopted is the simple fact that their black coats can make them hard to see in poorly lit kennels.  This can lead to poorly taken photos being posted on the shelters’ web sites which are how many people find the dog they want to adopt.

    A lot of shelters will put extra energy into getting their black dogs noticed.  Usually placing a brightly colored ribbon or piece of fabric around their necks help to get these black coated dogs noticed.

    If you or someone you know is looking to adopt, keep black dogs in mind.  They have the hardest time being adopted out but could end up being your best companion yet!

  • Dogs – On the Brink of Sniffing Out Disease?

    Posted on April 25th, 2012
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    Dog’s noses are amazing, so much in fact they are able to detect individual scent molecules among thousands; molecules so small that they elude hi-tech sensory equipment.

    Dog’s noses are used to rescue people, discover drugs, uncover agricultural contraband, sniff out bombs and detect landmines.

    What about disease?  There has been evidence that dogs may be able to give early warning signs of cancer and the onset of epileptic seizures.  In spite of a lot of hype, however, the evidence is far from conclusive.  Researchers have made some progress but the jury is still out on whether dogs will assume a new role in the field of medicine.

    Check out some of these scenarios we got from Petplace.com.

    Sniffing Out Cancer

    In 1989, a woman went to see her doctor about a mole in her left leg. The mole had been there for quite a few months, but she paid it little interest. Her dog, on the other hand, soon became obsessed with it.

    At first, the dog – a cross between a border collie and a Doberman – constantly sniffed or licked at the mole, even through clothing. He eventually tried to bite it off, according to the Lancet, a highly respected British medical journal. The 44-year-old woman decided it was time to get this thing checked out. The mole turned out to be malignant melanoma, a life-threatening form of skin cancer, and it was quickly removed. Her dog, by bringing it to her attention, had saved the woman’s life.

    Intrigued with persistent reports of such phenomena, Florida dermatologist Armand Cognetta decided to investigate possible medical uses. In 1996, Cognetta borrowed a 7-year-old schnauzer named George, a recently retired bomb-sniffing canine, and asked for help from a veteran dog trainer. The goal was to see if George (who had an uncanny sense of smell, even for a dog) could consistently sniff out melanoma, in both tissue samples and in people.

    Normally, a handheld microscope is used to diagnose potential skin cancer, followed by a biopsy. The microscope is about 80 percent effective in early diagnosis, which is why further tests are usually conducted to confirm the diagnosis.

    After many hours of training, the gray schnauzer scored nearly 100 percent on identifying melanoma tissue samples. Cognetta then allowed George to “examine” actual patients. He discovered melanoma in four (possibly five, depending on how you look at the results) of seven patients. Cognetta wrote that the results were interesting but far from conclusive. A much larger, more controlled study is necessary to determine if dogs can be trained to reliably detect cancer.

    However, if they do have the ability to detect disease, don’t expect dogs in medical practices any time soon. The cost to train a dog would be astronomical – $35,000 per dog, with 1,200 hours of training. That costs way more than even an MRI exam. A biopsy would be necessary in any case, because doctors would never base an opinion on a single diagnosis.

    The real promise is to discover how dogs are able to do it, and then build a machine to mimic the skill. Studies are underway in seven institutions across the globe to find out why some dogs have this amazing ability.

    Detecting Epilepsy

    Dogs also have been reported to be able to detect the onset of epileptic seizures, sometimes 20 minutes prior to an attack. The benefit of this is obvious: a person can be forewarned to find a safe place or get help before being incapacitated.

    Unfortunately, in spite of the many anecdotal reports of “seizure alert dogs,” there is no scientific evidence or documented proof that dogs can be reliably trained to detect the onset of a seizure. The seizure itself is a symptom, not a specific disease. Seizures can occur for a variety of reasons, one of which is epilepsy. Regardless of the cause, the electrical activity in the brain is temporarily disrupted during a seizure. Seizures can be hardly noticeable, or they can be incapacitating.

    The Epilepsy Institute has been unsuccessful in its attempts to study whether dogs can reliably predict seizures. The institute used EEG machines and video cameras to monitor epileptics with their dogs. Limited funding did not permit 24-hour monitoring, and during the monitoring no seizures took place.

    But finding evidence of this ability would only be a first step. Training a dog to recognize and respond appropriately is the greater challenge. If dogs have this ability, there is no way to know if a dog can be trained with this skill.

    “There is no guarantee that a dog, if he can detect a seizure, will do so 10 out of 10 times,” explained Beth Rivard, executive director of a nationally recognized service dog program. Rivard heads up the Prison Pet Partnership Program, at Washington Corrections Center for Women, in Washington.

    Beginning in 1981, the program has been teaching inmates to care for and train service dogs, which are then placed with recipients suffering from a number of disorders, including epilepsy. When a seizure begins, dogs are trained to stay with the person, and to get a phone or medication if directed to do so. They also know to get help, and may even know to try to roll a person onto his side to prevent choking.

    But Rivard said there’s no way to train a dog to detect when a seizure is imminent. “It would be a great thing if they can do it, but how do you prove it every time,” she said. If a dog senses a chemical change prior to a seizure – which they may – the odor would have to be replicated to train the dog to react the right way, every time. That may be difficult because seizures are electrical disturbances within the brain.

    The Epilepsy Institute recommends against getting a dog for the purpose of predicting seizures, and does not recommend any trainers for this purpose. After conducting interviews, the institute concluded that despite the publicity, few people have actually reported that their pets have this ability. Half of those who said their pets did show some ability were more likely to identify behavior during or after a seizure – and not before.

    However, the institute noted that enough reports sound authentic enough to warrant more scientific research.

    The institute is pursuing funding to conduct more extensive research, and has developed a pet profile questionnaire to collect data on the subject. After filling out the form, individuals will be interviewed by phone to the likelihood that their pet can detect seizures prior to human awareness.

  • Proper Cleaning for your Reptile’s Cage

    Posted on April 23rd, 2012
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    Cage maintenance for your reptile should receive proper attention.

    Reptiles are susceptible to bacterial infections of the skin and digestive tract so cages and housing  must be thoroughly and regularly cleaned. In order to a safe and healthy home for your reptile, routine cage maintenance is necessary by keeping the cage odor-free.  It is ideal to place an Odor Remover Bag in the cage to help keep away any foul odors.  Clear the Air is completely non-toxic and 100% safe around all types of animals.

    Certain precautions need to be taken during cleaning since the fecal matter of reptiles may harbor harmful bacteria such as Salmonella. It is most commonly transmitted to humans through oral ingestion after handling a reptile or contaminated equipment, through open cuts or sores during handling, or through contact with contaminated soil or environmental items. For this reason, your reptile’s cage, furnishings, and cleaning equipment need to be cleaned regularly and periodically disinfected. Sprinkling Clear the Air’s Odor Eliminator will eliminate any odors in your cage and will help to keep your reptile enjoying his home.

    Wear protective gloves during maintenance and wash your hands thoroughly with hot, soapy water after handling reptiles, reptile cages and equipment, and the stool of reptiles.

    Cage Accessories – Before introducing natural items such as rocks and branches into your reptile’s home, make sure they are sterile. Rocks should be thoroughly cleaned and then boiled in water for 30 minutes. Sand can be rinsed with large amounts of water to remove any particulate matter and then heated in an oven at 200-250°F for 30 minutes. Branches should also be cleaned and heated in the same manner.

    How Often Should You Clean The frequency and degree of routine cage cleaning will vary from species to species depending on the size and habits of your reptile. Always read and learn as much as possible regarding the needs and preferences of your reptile, and tailor your cleaning schedule around the needs of your particular pet. For example, cages of large iguanas require more work than those of a snake. As you become more familiar with the needs of your pet, you may have to alter your cleaning schedule as needed. However, in general, you will need to:

    • Perform daily cleaning to remove spills, uneaten food, shed skin, and other waste materials. Clean and disinfect food and water dishes daily when providing fresh food and water.
    • Clean and disinfect the entire cage, substrate, and decorations weekly.

    The use of rubber or latex gloves and protective goggles are recommended during cleaning. Wash your hands thoroughly after every contact with your reptile and every cleaning procedure, no matter how brief, to avoid transmission of harmful bacteria. Use a hand sanitizer or antibacterial soap to further minimize any risk.Cleaning Routine – As part of your daily cleaning routine, you should remove feces and any uneaten food. Wipe up water spills and urates. If you are using a sand substrate, you can use a Shovel Scooper to clean and extend the use of the sand substrate.  If the inside of the cage has stubborn material that requires a cleaning solution, remove and temporarily relocate your reptile to a clean spare cage. Wait until the cage is completely dry and free of fumes before returning your pet.

    Wash food and water dishes in hot soapy water and dry thoroughly. Use a disinfectant or antibacterial soap to sanitize. Be sure to rinse thoroughly, leaving no trace of soap or disinfectant behind.  To make the cleaning process more efficient, consider having two or more sets of dishes. By doing so, you can quickly and easily replace one set while the other is being cleaned.

    Monthly Cleaning – Temporarily relocate your reptile to a clean spare cage while cleaning the main cage. Start by removing all decorations in the cage. Bag and discard disposable substrate.  Loosen hardened material with a commercial reptile-safe cleaner, a toothbrush or other applicable tools from your special tool kit. Thoroughly clean all cage surfaces with hot soapy water and rinse and dry well.

    Wash all decorations, food/water dishes and non-disposable substrate such as indoor/outdoor carpet with hot soapy water. Scrub with brushes to remove wastes and dried liquids, and rinse well.  After the entire cage and all accessories are cleaned and thoroughly rinsed, sanitize them by using a disinfectant. Then, rinse the cage, accessories, and decorations with hot water, to remove any residues.

    Air dry all items completely before putting everything back together. Re-install everything when completely dry. Replace natural wood or any decoration that will not dry easily with easier to clean artificial decorations.  If bathing is recommended for your reptile, it’s a good idea to bathe your reptile before introducing him into his clean, dry, and odor-free cage.

    After cleaning your reptile cage, always remember to thoroughly clean and disinfect all the cleaning items you used, including the sink. Don’t forget to wash your hands as well. By taking proper precautions, you can create an environment that is safe for both you and your pet reptile.

  • Feeding Your Older Cat

    Posted on April 13th, 2012
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    Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on feeding your older cat.

    Usually once cats reach age seven, they begin to show visible age-related changes.  There are metabolic, immunologic and body composition changes, too. Some of these are unavoidable. Others can be managed with diet.

    The following are some tips to keep your older cat on a healthy diet:

    Once your cat reaches seven years of age, start your cat on a senior diet.

    The main objectives in the feeding an older cat should be to maintain health and optimum body weight, slow or prevent the development of chronic disease, and minimize or improve clinical signs of diseases that may already be present.

    As a cat ages, health issues may arise, including:
    – deterioration of skin and coat
    – loss of muscle mass
    – more frequent intestinal problems
    – arthritis
    – obesity
    – dental problems
    – decreased ability to fight off infection

    Older cats have been shown to progressively put on body fat in spite of consuming fewer calories. This change in body composition is inevitable and may be aggravated by either reduced energy expenditure or a change in metabolic rate. Either way, it is important to feed a diet with a lower caloric density to avoid weight gain, but with a normal protein level to help maintain muscle mass.

    Talk to your veterinarian about increasing your senior cat’s vitamin E intake. Antibody response decreases as cats age. Increasing the intake of vitamin E in cats older than seven years of age can increase their antibody levels back to those seen in younger cats!

    Antioxidants such as vitamin E and beta-carotene help eliminate free radical particles that can damage body tissues and cause signs of aging. Senior diets for cats should contain higher levels of these antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants can also increase the effectiveness of the immune system in senior cats.

    Routine care for geriatric pets should involve a consistent daily routine and periodic veterinary examinations to assess the presence or progress of chronic disease. Stressful situations and abrupt changes in daily routines should be avoided. If a drastic change must be made to an older pet’s routine, try to minimize stress and to realize the change in a gradual manner.