• Kitty Cool Down Tips for Summertime

    Posted on May 3rd, 2012
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    With summertime approaching it is important to take extra steps to make sure your pets stay cool.

    A cat that becomes overheated in the summer can suffer from dehydration, shallow breathing and can even get heatstroke.

    Always provide plenty of clean, fresh water for your fuzzy feline.  Help your kitty enjoy a happy and safe summer this year by following these helpful kitty cool down steps:

    • Let Your Cat Decide His Cool Spot – Cats are smart about comfort at all times including during the heat.  Ever notice your cat curling up in the sink or sprawling out on the tile?  Porcelain and tile stay cool even when it’s hot outside providing a great place for your kitty to cool down.
    • Calm Kitty – If your cat is running around too much during a really hot day, he will soon become exhausted and dehydrated.  Provide a relaxed, indoor place that is both cool and darkened to allow your kitty to cool down.  Don’t initiate play when he is in an agitated state.
    • Create A Hide Out – Use a cardboard box or something else that is out of the way and dark near a cool spot.  You can line it with a terry towel or other type of cotton, breathable natural fabric that isn’t too warm.  Sticking an ice pack inside a sock and placing it in his retreat is also a helpful added cooling affect.
    • Shady Garden Area – Make sure your yard has some shady spots for your outdoor cat to enjoy.  If you provide them, your kitty will find them.  It should be somewhere a gentle breeze is available.  If you have outdoor buildings such as greenhouses or sheds, double check you haven’t locked your kitty in there before closing the door.  This could end up killing your cat as temperatures rise in these types of shelters.
    • Wet Towels – Most cats don’t like the water however you can help cool your cat down with dampened towels.  If you simply dampen a cloth or paper towel and stroke your cat with it, it can help cool him down.  Good areas to cool down, where cats get warmest, is on their bellies, the pads of their paws, armpits, under their chins and on the outside of their ears.
    • Brush Your Cat – This helps take away any matted fur which can trap heat and helps air flow freely through his coat.  This is especially important for long haired breeds of cats.  Do not shave your cat as this can expose your cat to the sun and result in sunburn and skin cancer.
    • Always Have Water Available – Dehydration is a real risk for cats during the hot summer months so constant water access is essential. Always, always have water available for your kitty.
  • Kitty Litter Odor Bringing You Down? Learn How To Never Have To Smell It Again!

    Posted on May 2nd, 2012
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    Your kitty litter box shouldn’t be a battle and Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips to keeping an odor free litter box.

    Follow these steps to an odor free litter box and home:

    Scooping – The number one rule, and the only thing that will keep litter box odor at bay, is constant cleaning. That means scooping the box out at least twice a day, removing the solids and liquid clumps if you use clumping litter.  If you don’t use clumping litter, you can use a large solid metal spoon to lift out the most urine-soaked areas each time you clean and add litter as needed to replace what is removed.

    Washing Your Litter Box – You should also get in the habit of washing the litter box at least every other week if not more.  Use a mild unscented dish detergent and rinse clean.  Remember to clean your scooper too.  When the box is dry, sprinkle a thin layer of our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator in the box first.  Then add two to three inches of litter.  Cats do not like a deep tray of litter and this allows you to add litter as you scoop.

    Type of Litter – Some have perfumes and others have additives to only cover the smell.  To a cat, these smells can be overwhelming and make the box unwelcoming.  It is usually a good idea to get unscented litter and sprinkle our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator in the box to eliminate the odor, not cover it up.

    Type of Litter Box – Using the largest box your home can accommodate is the best idea.  A good rule of thumb is to get a box that is at least twice as long as your adult cat and wide as the cat is long.  Even though a covered box is nicer to look at, most cats don’t like them and they also trap odors inside making it unpleasant for your pet to enter.  Cats claws can get stuck in liners when they are digging for a place to relieve themselves and the urine can also seep into the liner, trapping odors in the box.

    Location – Lastly, location of your cats litter box is very important to keep your pet happy to relieve himself in the correct areas.  The rule is one litter box per cat plus one.  If your cat is on the third floor of your house and the litter box is in the basement, he may not decide to make the long trek.  It is important to have the boxes in different locations.  Also make sure the box is in a low traffic area, away from his or her food and in a place that your cat can easily get in and out of.

    These suggestions may take a lot of effort but not only with your cat be happier but you will as well, not having to put up with cat urine odors.    Remember to pick up Clear the Air’s Cat Urine Odor Eliminator available at all Petco stores or online.

  • San Diego Humane Society’s 18th Annual Walk for Animals

    Posted on April 30th, 2012
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    In honor of Clear the Air’s fundraiser for The San Diego Humane Society, check out this great event you can be a part of to help raise money for the Humane Society…

    Check out the San Diego Humane Society’s 18th Annual Walk for Animals! You and your furry friends will have a tail-waggin’ good time as we walk to celebrate our love for animals while raising the vital funds needed to ensure that every companion animal can find a loving home.

    The morning festivities include a delicious pancake breakfast, a scenic ¾ mile walk, fun-filled doggie activities and contests, and an array of vendors. Help us reach our goal of $600,000!

    Click Here to sign up for the event!

  • Black Dogs – Last To Get Adopted

    Posted on April 27th, 2012
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    When it comes to adoption, black dogs are often passed over for whatever reason and end up being the last to be adopted, if adopted at all.

    Some people still have a harmful superstition of black dogs, place a negative label on them, fear that the color of the dog makes them aggressive or dangerous or think they are just too ordinary looking.

    Some people may not be aware of the horrifying rate black dogs are euthanized over lighter colored dogs.  While the idea of doggie discrimination sounds strange, “black dog syndrome” does happen.  It is usually an unconscious occurrence and it may explain why black cats have the same problem finding a home.  People whom are superstitious about black cats may unconsciously harbor superstitions about black dogs as well.

    Sometimes people may mistake black dogs to be older than other lighter dogs.  This is because they usually have bits of facial hair that may be white or gray, making the dog appear older than he/she really is.  Others may return their black dog to the shelter because they have gotten new furniture and they don’t want the dark hair that their pet sheds.

    Another interesting factor that keep black dogs from being adopted is the simple fact that their black coats can make them hard to see in poorly lit kennels.  This can lead to poorly taken photos being posted on the shelters’ web sites which are how many people find the dog they want to adopt.

    A lot of shelters will put extra energy into getting their black dogs noticed.  Usually placing a brightly colored ribbon or piece of fabric around their necks help to get these black coated dogs noticed.

    If you or someone you know is looking to adopt, keep black dogs in mind.  They have the hardest time being adopted out but could end up being your best companion yet!

  • Keep Rats Out Of Your Home

    Posted on April 26th, 2012
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    Do you have a problem with rats infesting your home?

    Maybe it has only happened once and the problem was taken care of.  It is important, however, to make sure you take continuous precautionary measures to ensure rats do not become a nuisance in your home again.

    If you have a rat die in the walls of your home, the odor can be overwhelming to say the least.  Instead of having to get into the walls of your home to remove the dead carcass, simply hang one or two of our Clear The Air Odor Remover Bags in your home and the odor will be eliminated.  It truly is that easy, guaranteed!

    Get familiar with these pests so you are able to know what to do to prevent infestation.  Read below to find out what type of food and housing they are attracted to and how to keep them out:

    Where do rats live outside?

    • Under wood piles or lumber that is not being used often
    • Under bushes, vines and in tall grasses that are not trimmed or cut back
    • Under rocks in the garden
    • In cars, appliances and furniture that has been put outside and is no longer being used
    • In and around trash and garbage that has been left on the ground
    • In holes under buildings

    Where do rats live inside?

    • In the insulation of walls or ceilings
    • Inside the crawl spaces
    • Behind or under cupboards, counters, bathtubs and shower stalls
    • Near hot water heaters and furnaces
    • In basements, attics and wherever things are stored in boxes, paper or cloth

    What types of food bring rats into my yard and neighborhood?

    • Garbage that rats can get into, like garbage cans with loose lids, plastic or paper bags, and litter.
    • Food for pets and birds that has not been eaten. Birdseed on the ground, pet food in pet dishes, bread crumbs, etc.
    • Fruits and berries that have fallen to the ground.
    • Compost pile or worm bin that isn’t taken care of the right way (do not put meat, fish, poultry, or dairy in the compost)
    • Dog droppings

    What food do rats eat once they are inside the house?

    • THE SAME FOODS WE DO!
    • Foods, fats, oils that have been spilled and left on counters, floors, appliances and tables
    • Grains, like cereal, oats, rice and vegetables like potatoes and carrots that are in cardboard boxes and plastic bags
    • Pet food in boxes or bags
    • Any garbage that is not in a can with a tight lid

    How to keep rats away from your home:

    • First of all, do not give food and shelter to these unwanted guests.
    • The time to act is before the signs (droppings) of a rat or mouse.
    • Stack fire wood 18 inches off the ground and away from all buildings.
    • Birdhouses and seed should be on poles and in trays rats can’t get.
    • Keep garbage can lids closed tightly.
    • Plant bushes so they will stay at least 3 feet from your house.
    • Keep yards and alleys clean. Take junk to the dump!
    • If you feed them, they will stay. Pick up fruit and vegetables in your yard.
    • Do not compost any animal products (fish, meat, chicken, cheese, butter). Keep lids tight.
    • Use only rodent resistant composters.
    • In basements keep any food in closed containers that rats can’t chew through.
    • Cover all openings to your house. Rats can get into very small places.
    • Do not leave your pet food outside. If your pet doesn’t eat it, the rats will.
    • Roof rats get into your house from tree branches that hang over the roof. Keep trees cut back and cover any openings in the eves.
  • Dogs – On the Brink of Sniffing Out Disease?

    Posted on April 25th, 2012
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    Dog’s noses are amazing, so much in fact they are able to detect individual scent molecules among thousands; molecules so small that they elude hi-tech sensory equipment.

    Dog’s noses are used to rescue people, discover drugs, uncover agricultural contraband, sniff out bombs and detect landmines.

    What about disease?  There has been evidence that dogs may be able to give early warning signs of cancer and the onset of epileptic seizures.  In spite of a lot of hype, however, the evidence is far from conclusive.  Researchers have made some progress but the jury is still out on whether dogs will assume a new role in the field of medicine.

    Check out some of these scenarios we got from Petplace.com.

    Sniffing Out Cancer

    In 1989, a woman went to see her doctor about a mole in her left leg. The mole had been there for quite a few months, but she paid it little interest. Her dog, on the other hand, soon became obsessed with it.

    At first, the dog – a cross between a border collie and a Doberman – constantly sniffed or licked at the mole, even through clothing. He eventually tried to bite it off, according to the Lancet, a highly respected British medical journal. The 44-year-old woman decided it was time to get this thing checked out. The mole turned out to be malignant melanoma, a life-threatening form of skin cancer, and it was quickly removed. Her dog, by bringing it to her attention, had saved the woman’s life.

    Intrigued with persistent reports of such phenomena, Florida dermatologist Armand Cognetta decided to investigate possible medical uses. In 1996, Cognetta borrowed a 7-year-old schnauzer named George, a recently retired bomb-sniffing canine, and asked for help from a veteran dog trainer. The goal was to see if George (who had an uncanny sense of smell, even for a dog) could consistently sniff out melanoma, in both tissue samples and in people.

    Normally, a handheld microscope is used to diagnose potential skin cancer, followed by a biopsy. The microscope is about 80 percent effective in early diagnosis, which is why further tests are usually conducted to confirm the diagnosis.

    After many hours of training, the gray schnauzer scored nearly 100 percent on identifying melanoma tissue samples. Cognetta then allowed George to “examine” actual patients. He discovered melanoma in four (possibly five, depending on how you look at the results) of seven patients. Cognetta wrote that the results were interesting but far from conclusive. A much larger, more controlled study is necessary to determine if dogs can be trained to reliably detect cancer.

    However, if they do have the ability to detect disease, don’t expect dogs in medical practices any time soon. The cost to train a dog would be astronomical – $35,000 per dog, with 1,200 hours of training. That costs way more than even an MRI exam. A biopsy would be necessary in any case, because doctors would never base an opinion on a single diagnosis.

    The real promise is to discover how dogs are able to do it, and then build a machine to mimic the skill. Studies are underway in seven institutions across the globe to find out why some dogs have this amazing ability.

    Detecting Epilepsy

    Dogs also have been reported to be able to detect the onset of epileptic seizures, sometimes 20 minutes prior to an attack. The benefit of this is obvious: a person can be forewarned to find a safe place or get help before being incapacitated.

    Unfortunately, in spite of the many anecdotal reports of “seizure alert dogs,” there is no scientific evidence or documented proof that dogs can be reliably trained to detect the onset of a seizure. The seizure itself is a symptom, not a specific disease. Seizures can occur for a variety of reasons, one of which is epilepsy. Regardless of the cause, the electrical activity in the brain is temporarily disrupted during a seizure. Seizures can be hardly noticeable, or they can be incapacitating.

    The Epilepsy Institute has been unsuccessful in its attempts to study whether dogs can reliably predict seizures. The institute used EEG machines and video cameras to monitor epileptics with their dogs. Limited funding did not permit 24-hour monitoring, and during the monitoring no seizures took place.

    But finding evidence of this ability would only be a first step. Training a dog to recognize and respond appropriately is the greater challenge. If dogs have this ability, there is no way to know if a dog can be trained with this skill.

    “There is no guarantee that a dog, if he can detect a seizure, will do so 10 out of 10 times,” explained Beth Rivard, executive director of a nationally recognized service dog program. Rivard heads up the Prison Pet Partnership Program, at Washington Corrections Center for Women, in Washington.

    Beginning in 1981, the program has been teaching inmates to care for and train service dogs, which are then placed with recipients suffering from a number of disorders, including epilepsy. When a seizure begins, dogs are trained to stay with the person, and to get a phone or medication if directed to do so. They also know to get help, and may even know to try to roll a person onto his side to prevent choking.

    But Rivard said there’s no way to train a dog to detect when a seizure is imminent. “It would be a great thing if they can do it, but how do you prove it every time,” she said. If a dog senses a chemical change prior to a seizure – which they may – the odor would have to be replicated to train the dog to react the right way, every time. That may be difficult because seizures are electrical disturbances within the brain.

    The Epilepsy Institute recommends against getting a dog for the purpose of predicting seizures, and does not recommend any trainers for this purpose. After conducting interviews, the institute concluded that despite the publicity, few people have actually reported that their pets have this ability. Half of those who said their pets did show some ability were more likely to identify behavior during or after a seizure – and not before.

    However, the institute noted that enough reports sound authentic enough to warrant more scientific research.

    The institute is pursuing funding to conduct more extensive research, and has developed a pet profile questionnaire to collect data on the subject. After filling out the form, individuals will be interviewed by phone to the likelihood that their pet can detect seizures prior to human awareness.

  • Proper Cleaning for your Reptile’s Cage

    Posted on April 23rd, 2012
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    Cage maintenance for your reptile should receive proper attention.

    Reptiles are susceptible to bacterial infections of the skin and digestive tract so cages and housing  must be thoroughly and regularly cleaned. In order to a safe and healthy home for your reptile, routine cage maintenance is necessary by keeping the cage odor-free.  It is ideal to place an Odor Remover Bag in the cage to help keep away any foul odors.  Clear the Air is completely non-toxic and 100% safe around all types of animals.

    Certain precautions need to be taken during cleaning since the fecal matter of reptiles may harbor harmful bacteria such as Salmonella. It is most commonly transmitted to humans through oral ingestion after handling a reptile or contaminated equipment, through open cuts or sores during handling, or through contact with contaminated soil or environmental items. For this reason, your reptile’s cage, furnishings, and cleaning equipment need to be cleaned regularly and periodically disinfected. Sprinkling Clear the Air’s Odor Eliminator will eliminate any odors in your cage and will help to keep your reptile enjoying his home.

    Wear protective gloves during maintenance and wash your hands thoroughly with hot, soapy water after handling reptiles, reptile cages and equipment, and the stool of reptiles.

    Cage Accessories – Before introducing natural items such as rocks and branches into your reptile’s home, make sure they are sterile. Rocks should be thoroughly cleaned and then boiled in water for 30 minutes. Sand can be rinsed with large amounts of water to remove any particulate matter and then heated in an oven at 200-250°F for 30 minutes. Branches should also be cleaned and heated in the same manner.

    How Often Should You Clean The frequency and degree of routine cage cleaning will vary from species to species depending on the size and habits of your reptile. Always read and learn as much as possible regarding the needs and preferences of your reptile, and tailor your cleaning schedule around the needs of your particular pet. For example, cages of large iguanas require more work than those of a snake. As you become more familiar with the needs of your pet, you may have to alter your cleaning schedule as needed. However, in general, you will need to:

    • Perform daily cleaning to remove spills, uneaten food, shed skin, and other waste materials. Clean and disinfect food and water dishes daily when providing fresh food and water.
    • Clean and disinfect the entire cage, substrate, and decorations weekly.

    The use of rubber or latex gloves and protective goggles are recommended during cleaning. Wash your hands thoroughly after every contact with your reptile and every cleaning procedure, no matter how brief, to avoid transmission of harmful bacteria. Use a hand sanitizer or antibacterial soap to further minimize any risk.Cleaning Routine – As part of your daily cleaning routine, you should remove feces and any uneaten food. Wipe up water spills and urates. If you are using a sand substrate, you can use a Shovel Scooper to clean and extend the use of the sand substrate.  If the inside of the cage has stubborn material that requires a cleaning solution, remove and temporarily relocate your reptile to a clean spare cage. Wait until the cage is completely dry and free of fumes before returning your pet.

    Wash food and water dishes in hot soapy water and dry thoroughly. Use a disinfectant or antibacterial soap to sanitize. Be sure to rinse thoroughly, leaving no trace of soap or disinfectant behind.  To make the cleaning process more efficient, consider having two or more sets of dishes. By doing so, you can quickly and easily replace one set while the other is being cleaned.

    Monthly Cleaning – Temporarily relocate your reptile to a clean spare cage while cleaning the main cage. Start by removing all decorations in the cage. Bag and discard disposable substrate.  Loosen hardened material with a commercial reptile-safe cleaner, a toothbrush or other applicable tools from your special tool kit. Thoroughly clean all cage surfaces with hot soapy water and rinse and dry well.

    Wash all decorations, food/water dishes and non-disposable substrate such as indoor/outdoor carpet with hot soapy water. Scrub with brushes to remove wastes and dried liquids, and rinse well.  After the entire cage and all accessories are cleaned and thoroughly rinsed, sanitize them by using a disinfectant. Then, rinse the cage, accessories, and decorations with hot water, to remove any residues.

    Air dry all items completely before putting everything back together. Re-install everything when completely dry. Replace natural wood or any decoration that will not dry easily with easier to clean artificial decorations.  If bathing is recommended for your reptile, it’s a good idea to bathe your reptile before introducing him into his clean, dry, and odor-free cage.

    After cleaning your reptile cage, always remember to thoroughly clean and disinfect all the cleaning items you used, including the sink. Don’t forget to wash your hands as well. By taking proper precautions, you can create an environment that is safe for both you and your pet reptile.

  • Allergic to pets? Learn how you can still keep your furry companions!

    Posted on April 19th, 2012
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    Are you allergic to pets?

    You love dogs and cats and wish you could have one but your allergies tell you otherwise.

    There is hope though! Read this article we found on the ASPCA’s website which tells how you can still keep your furry companion and breathe easy.

    Although more and more people are discovering the beneficial effects of owning a furry bundle of joy, the fact remains that roughly 15 to 20 percent of the population is allergic to animals. The result? Countless owners in unhappy, unhealthy situations—and their beloved pets are the cause! Allergen is the medical term for the actual substance that causes an allergic reaction. Touching or inhaling allergens leads to reactions in allergic individuals. Symptoms can include red, itchy, watery eyes and nose; sneezing; coughing; scratchy or sore throat; itchy skin, and most serious of all, difficulty breathing.

    The most common pet allergens are proteins found in their dander (scales of old skin that are constantly shed by an animal), saliva, urine and sebaceous cells. Any animal can trigger an allergic response, but cats are the most common culprits. People can also become allergic to the urine, dander and saliva of exotic pets such as ferrets, guinea pigs, birds, rabbits and rodents. There is no species or breed to which humans cannot develop allergies. Fur length and type will not affect or prevent allergies. Certain pets can be less irritating than others to those who suffer from allergies, but that is strictly on an individual basis and cannot be predicted.

    Once the diagnosis of a pet allergy is made, a physician will often recommend eliminating the companion animal from the surroundings. Heartbreaking? Yes. Absolutely necessary? Not always. Keep in mind that most people are allergic to several things besides pets, such as dust mites, molds and pollens, all of which can be found in the home. Allergic symptoms result from the total cumulative allergen load. That means that if you eliminate some of the other allergens, you may not have to get rid of your pet. (Conversely, should you decide to remove your pet from your home, this may not immediately solve your problems.) You must also be prepared to invest the time and effort needed to decontaminate your home environment, limit future exposure to allergens and find a physician who will work with you. Our three-part program follows:

    Improving the Immediate Environment

    1. Create an allergen-free room. A bedroom is often the best and most practical choice. By preventing your pet from entering this room, you can ensure at least eight hours of freedom from allergens every night. It’s a good idea to use hypoallergenic bedding and pillow materials.
    2. Limit fabrics. Allergens collect in rugs, drapes and upholstery, so do your best to limit or eliminate them from your home. If you choose to keep some fabrics, steam-clean them regularly. Cotton-covered furniture is the smartest choice, and washable blinds or shades make good window treatments.
    3. Vacuum frequently using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate arresting) filter or a disposable electrostatic bag. Other kinds of bags will permit allergens to blow back out of the vacuum.
    4. Install an air purifier fitted with a HEPA filter. Our modern, energy-efficient homes lock in air that is loaded with allergens, so it’s smart to let in some fresh air daily.
    5. Use anti-allergen room sprays. These sprays deactivate allergens, rendering them harmless. Ask your allergist for a product recommendation.
    6. Clean the litter box frequently. Use lowdust, perfume-free filler. Clumping litter is a good choice.
    7. Dust regularly. Wiping down the walls will also cut down on allergens.
    8. Invest in washable pet bedding and cages that can be cleaned often and easily.

    Decontaminating Your Pet

    1. Bathe your pet at least once a week. Your veterinarian can recommend a shampoo that won’t dry out his skin. Bathing works to wash off the allergens that accumulate in an animal’s fur.
    2. Wipe your pet with a product formulated to prevent dander from building up and flaking off into the environment. Ask your veterinarian to suggest one that is safe to use on animals who groom themselves.
    3. Note any symptoms of dermatitis exhibited by your companion animal. Dermatitis often leads to accelerated skin and fur shedding, which will up your allergen exposure.
    4. Brush or comb your pet frequently. It’s best to do this outdoors, if possible. (The ASPCA does not recommend keeping cats outdoors, so make sure your feline is leashed if you take him outside.)

    Taking Care of Yourself

    1. If possible, have someone other than yourself do the housecleaning, litter box work and pet washing, wiping and brushing. If you must clean the house or change the litter, be sure to wear a dust mask.
    2. Wash your hands after handling your companion animal and before touching your face. The areas around your nose and eyes are particularly sensitive to allergens.
    3. Designate a “pet outfit” from among your most easily washed clothes. Wear it when playing or cuddling with your companion, and you’ll leave other clothing uncontaminated.
    4. Find a physician, preferably an allergy specialist, who will make sure that your pet is the cause of your allergies and will help alleviate your symptoms. Medications and immunotherapy (desensitizing shots) can often allow you and your companion animal to remain together happily ever after.

    Article from ASPCA’s website.

  • Boat Odors – Eliminate Them!

    Posted on April 18th, 2012
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    Do you or someone you know own a boat?  Even if you have simply been on a boat at one time in your life, you probably remember a foul odor coming from somewhere on the boat.

    Boats typically are filled with powerful odors such as bilge odors, mold and mildew odors, fuel odors, head and holding tank odors, galley odors, smoke odors and pet odors.

    As you can see, many odors can inhibit boats and yachts and it is sometimes impossible to remove these odors.  In the past boat owners have had to use caustic chemicals, expensive detailing, air purifiers and caustic ozone machines to rid their boat of odors.  Now there is a solution to odor removal that is simple, easy to use and cost effective.

    Earth Care Odor Remover Bags can simply be hung in your boat and they will completely eliminate all these odors.  These odor remover bags draw in odors like a powerful magnet.  The odors are absorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances.  Earth Care is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth.  It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.

    Earth Care’s Odor Remover Bags do not have to come in contact with the odor producer to eliminate the odor.  It does not cover up odors, but literally “clears the air” leaving the air fresh and clean.

    Follow the instructions below to use Earth Care’s Odor Remover Bags to completely eliminate odors from your boat or yacht:

    • Hang one bag in each bilge compartment, the head, the galley, the forward cabin and aft cabins. Some air circulation such as an open hatch is needed. Do not put bag directly in standing water.
    • All odors are typically eliminated in 24 hours. The bags will continue to eliminate new odors for up to 3 months. Each bag will cover approximately 100 square feet.
    • Do not set bag in direct sun.
    • If there are strong odors in your boat you may also want to sprinkle Clear The Air Odor Eliminator for Carpets and Furniture on all upholstery and carpet. Leave down overnight and vacuum. All odors will be completely eliminated.

    If you have any questions or comments on our product, please Contact Us.

  • Traveling With Your Dog – What To Know

    Posted on April 16th, 2012
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    Dog are a part of our every day life.  When we go on vacation, it is nice to be able to bring our faithful companion on our travels with us.

    However, there are some things to keep in mind when traveling with your dog to make sure he/she is safe and has an enjoyable trip.

    First, you should make sure to bring your dog to the vet’s for a check up before going on an extended trip. Make sure all his vaccinations are up to date; shot records with you. Health certifications are required for airline travel.  To keep your dog healthy as you travel, bring along a supply of his regular food and some local, or bottled, water. Be sure to bring any medications he needs.

    A crate is an excellent way to keep your dog safe in the car, and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet supply stores. Look for these features when purchasing:

    • Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn and lie down.
    • Strong, with handles and grips, and free of interior protrusions.
    • Leak-proof bottom covered with absorbent material.
    • Ventilation on opposing sides, with exterior rims or knobs to prevent blocked airflow.
    • “Live Animal” label, arrows upright, with owner’s name, address and phone number.
    • Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favorite toy, and a water bottle, and your dog is ready to go.

    In the event that your dog gets away from you on your trip, you can increase the chances of recovery by making sure he can be properly identified.  Make sure your dog has a sturdy leash and collar. The collar should have identification tags with the dog’s name, your name, and your home phone number, as well as proof of rabies shots.  Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip and bring a recent picture of your dog along with you.

    If you are traveling by car, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:

    • Get your dog used to the car by letting him sit in it with you without leaving the driveway, and then going for short rides.
    • Avoid car sickness by letting your dog travel on an empty stomach. However, make sure he has plenty of water at all times.
    • Keep the car well-ventilated. If the dog is in a crate, make sure that fresh air can flow into the crate.
    • Do not let your dog ride with his head sticking out of an open window. This can lead to eye injuries.
    • Never let your dog ride in the back of an open truck. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to severe injuries or death.
    • Stop frequently for exercise and potty breaks. Be sure to clean up after your dog.
    • Car rides are boring for everyone, so instruct your children not to tease or annoy the dog in the car.
    • Never, ever leave your dog unattended in a closed vehicle, particularly in the summer. See Summer Safety Tips for more information. If you must leave the car, designate a member of the family to stay with the dog.

    If you are traveling by plane, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:

    • Each airline has its own set of rules for canine air travel. You should call for information and make arrangements well in advance of your trip.
    • All airlines require health certifications and proof of vaccinations.
    • Some airlines will not transport animals when it is extremely hot or cold.
    • Dogs must be in an airline-approved crate when transported as cargo. Small dogs may ride under the seat in a crate or carrier.

    If you plan to travel with your dog by train or bus, you may be disappointed. Dogs are not permitted on Amtrak trains or on buses operated by Greyhound and other interstate bus companies. (Service dogs are permitted.) Local rail and bus companies have their own policies.

    You may fare better if you’re taking a cruise. The QE2 luxury cruiser, which sails from New York to England/France, provides special lodging and free meals for your dog. However, you should check the policies of the cruise line or ship you will be traveling on before making plans to take your dog on a cruise with you.

    Before you set out to your vacation destination, find out in advance which hotels or motels at your destination or on your route allow dogs. Many do not, or have size or breed restrictions.  If your dog is allowed to stay at a hotel, respect other guests, staff and the property and keep your dog as quiet as possible.  Do not leave the dog unattended. Many dogs will bark or destroy property if left alone in a strange place.  It is important to ask the management where you should walk your dog, and pick up after him, making sure not to not leave any mess behind.  Remember that one bad experience with a dog guest may prompt the hotel management to refuse to allow any dogs. Be considerate of others and leave your room and the grounds in good condition.